2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Go about 6.8 miles up Boulder Canyon, and park on the left side of the road about 200 yards after passing Cob Rock on the left side. (This pullout is also used for Happy Hour Crag.) There is a tyrolean across the creek about 200 yards upstream of this pullout. It's attached to a big flat boulder on the road side, and a big tree on the far side.
You can also park at the Bihedral pullout, 7.0 miles up the canyon on the left side, and walk 150 yards downstream to the tyrolean.
From the far side of the tyrolean, take a trail to the left to Witches' Tower. Then continue up and right on a steep trail to get to Sherwood Forest. About 100 yards up, the bolted face climbs appear.
This is one of the more obvious lines on the rock. Climb up the obvious seam/dihedral just right of Merry Men. Everyone seems to climb the crux a bit differently, which makes this a fun yet strenous route. Be easy on yourself and find the no-hands rest just past the crux. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
This is a very small area and the seven routes are close together. It gets unpleasantly crowded if more than ten climbers are present. If the parking lot is full (and there's no sign that lots of people are climbing at Happy Hour or the Riviera), you might think about going elsewhere.
Sherwood Forest stays shady and reasonably cool in the middle of summer. It was shaded till almost 2pm in June and was shady all day in September.
Looks like there's a new route up here. Between Tuckered and Fried and Little John's Big Stick there's a new line that heads up through some nice thin slabby moves - then through the easy roof sections. To stay consistent with Sherwood ratings, this thing is probabaly in the 10b-c neighborhood with the crux on the slab (unlike the nearby climbs) around the 3rd / 4th bolt.
It needs a bit more traffic to clean off some of the lichen on the slab and loose pebbles around the roof - but altogether a good line that's worth a go.
This area is amazingly popular. I was there on Saturday and there were 12 people at one time. I assume it to be because it is one of the few areas with great shade during the summer heat. Just be prepared for crowds and mediocre climbing.
Isn't it about time to put this discussion to rest? Sherwood Forest is an okay place to climb on a hot day. It produced a few good routes, but nothing of any real inspiration. I personally enjoyed some of them - Prince of Thieves has a couple of good moves, so do some of the others. Most of the grades have dropped down as we have picked the right sequences, something we usually get wrong when jumping on a new rock for the first time. The discussion over LJBS is far out of proportion to the route or any thought process or comitment in its original ascent. Overall the rock is decent enough, it probably still needs more cleaning, it sits in a nice forest environment. But for heaven's sake, lets keep it in perspective. It's not the Redgarden, it's not the Diamond, it's a spot for a few quarter rope-burns after work or a place grab some shade and run some lines. It serves a purpose much like a lot of the crags in Boulder Canyon, but it certainly is not worth the apparent agnst that has evolved.
Even though it was removed from the cb.com database, the climb known as "Tony Bubb's Little Stick" (FA Alan Nelson, 8/9/04) does in fact exist. It climbs the face between Maid Marian on the right and Little John's Big Stick on the left. It climbs a line that is completely independent of either of these routes. Fun thin face moves with a 10d crux between the 4th and 5th bolts. After the 6th bolt, clip the first bolt on LJBS and continue to the anchor on LJBS or Maid Marian. 9 bolts in all.
Note: the bolts on this climb are well to the right of the bolts that were removed from LJBS. LJBS could be climbed clipping these bolts, but you would probably need long runners and have to move out of the LJBS corner to make the clips.
The worn cold shuts on the anchor were replaced today by Alan Nelson. Thanks, Alan!
So don't go there AC. I had not been there in several years and went there last week and it was very pleasant. Perfect temp and shade and friendly people. Did not see any egos with crowbars and sledgehammers.
I agree with the dyspeptic AC about this cliff being a pile: with the exception of Men in Tights and Robbin' the Hood (which is actually quite good) the routes here tended to be compromised by squeezing (oops, I'm on another route) or contrivance (is this hold on?).
Condition report On 5/23/09, Bruno Hache and I finished work on the new tyrolean. The old tyrolean came down over the winter when part of the road-side boulder that the tyrolean was attached to fell off into the creek. There are now two static ropes on the tyrolean, and a hand-line/foot-loop to help getting back on the road-side boulder.
You can park at the Happy Hour pullout and walk upstream, or park at the Bihedral pullout and walk downstream, to get to the tyrolean. It's attached to a huge flat boulder on the road side, and a big tree on the far side.
This tyrolean can also be used to access Witches' Tower and Garden Party Wall. From the tyrolean, take a path to the left to get to Witches' Tower. Continue up and right to get to Sherwood Forest. Farther up and right is Garden Party Wall.
I had such a great time at this crag last Saturday! The routes were fun, the setting was incredible, and the friction was awesome. I would certainly recommend the area. Started early 7-ish and had the place to ourselves for 4 hours. Men in Tights was especially fun and a tough one to figure out. I think Boulder climbers are spoiled by the magnificent options they have. Up in in Fort Fun were pretty limited in choices for roping up ---- So, appreciate the wealth and don't gripe! It can always be worse or more crowded!