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The Sherpa Glacier is the left-most of Stuart's 3 north-side glaciers. It is also the easiest to climb and descend. The glacier and long curving snow gully above form a classic ski route from Stuart's summit ridge, and offer the peak's best early-season descent. From atop the snow, simple class 3 scrambling leads along the ridge to the summit.
Just left of the Ice Cliff Arete and left of the Ice cliff glacier, on the NE flank of Mt. Stuart. - best approached via Mountaineers Creek Trailhead.
Most will just solo the route. From early summer onward, the route gets increasingly difficult so consider more gear based upon current conditions for rappeling and climbing broken glacial snow.
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