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Start up a small left facing corner, then face climb up and then left onto the arete. Some tricky moves back right leads you to a flake and then to the base of nice fingercrack.
Up this to the anchor.
Great climb on perfect rock.
Starts 20ft right of Monkey Fist on the front of the obvious orange buttress.
Yellow and small wire at start, blue between bolts 2 and 3.
Red, black, yellow and double orange's for the upper crack.
All cams Metolius.
Scott sending with style.
The nice crack at the top.
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Gritstone ethics on rhyolite? Expect minimalistic bolting on this one coupled with great rock and some of the coolest sequences in the Jungle. Oh, did I mention it was one of the longest lines around?
The start is thin and intimidating, the climbing to first bolt being in the no-fall zone. Scamper up past a second bolt to a long section of discontinuous thin crack with unnerving gear (a bomber small nut is key) to two more bolts. The crux lurks there and seems to offer a few options to skirt a blank section. Latch onto the thank-Jeebus flake and you gain access to 30' or so of fingers to off-fingers crack to finish things off.
While I'm reluctant to give 4 stars to two of Andy's routes that are within 100' of each other, the quality of the climbing makes it a no-brainer.
Jul 2, 2012
Jul 5, 2012
Thanks lads, glad you liked it, both Scott and I thought it could be 4 stars. Super route.
Have to say, if we had used grit ethics there would have been bugger all bolts, so think yourselves lucky:)
|By Roy Suggett|
Jul 10, 2012
Holy in-your-face-rock, Batman-Ross! VERY stout lead on this outstanding route. Thanks for your hard work down here. Can't wait to have you come back and add to The Jungle's repertoire.