|As for all Hellgate areas|
Park your car off of the main canyon road.
A fun, stout route just right of the cave. The route on average is slightly overhanging but it's stepped, so the cruxes are all pretty steep. A bouldery crux at the first bolt, another at the 2nd bolt, and a third, more pumpy type crux up high. The 2nd crux is the burliest I'd say, an awkward bulge. I've only climbed the first pitch, it's .11d. The 2nd pitch looks like fun though.
Tower 1, just right of the cave.
You'll want a piece in between the 1st and 2nd bolt. A .4 camalot went in closer to the 2nd bolt, if you wanted a piece a little lower, probably a .5 or so. Draws other than that.
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 11, 2008
I got worked on the crux at the second bolt; does anyone have beta for that move?
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 9, 2013
Take a couple of .5s or a .5 and a .75 is you're a wuss. Or even a large nut if you still use those. I thought the .4 would look like a hot dog in a hallway so I skipped. There's an optional #2 placement somewhere higher that will reassure the meek during the trip between bolts.
The lower two cruxes are stout and technical, the upper section is reminiscent of Medusa with big moves between good holds and steeeeeeeeep climbing. There are tons of sucker holds that will explode your forearms if you don't nail the sequence.
Probably my new favorite line at Tower One.
|By Landon McBrayer|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 15, 2013
Oddly, i guess, I found the technical crux to be right at the first bolt - the moves getting established in the crack. Easy gear there. The second bolt "crux" seemed pretty straightforward, and the tough climbing ends quickly. The rest of the route is super juggy and steep, but with lots of rests interspersed between well-spaced bolts. The finish is wild! One of the best routes at the towers, for sure.