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New Blood S 
No Doubt Stout T 
Pie Face Dihedral T 
Pie in the Sky T 
Poly Grip S 
Road House Blues T 
Saw, The T 
Shelob's Lair T 
Slot, The T 
True Grip T 
Walk Like an Egyptian T 
Wind S 
Wipe Out T 
Zig Zag T 
Zig Zag Finish T 

Shelob's Lair 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bill Todd, 1976
Page Views: 214
Submitted By: 426 on Mar 20, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up into the nastiness of Shelob's Lair


The back side of the Wind block. This 5.9 chimney/wide crack is done by tunneling up behind Wind.

A wonderful obscurity for the wide crack connoisseur...most others will be grossed out.


Above Mad Wife (actually, at Mad Wife's belay). 10' and around the corner from "Wind"

Use "Wind" anchors to descent.


No pro really. Either basically a solo or perhaps better, do "Wind" and set up a TR.

Was very grovelly circa '95. Can't imagine things have changed much.

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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Feb 21, 2015

I don't know how grovelly it was in 95' but it can't have gotten any better. As a matter of fact I don't know if it's had another ascent since then. I had to come down half way up due to the gear loops on my harness catching on chossy flakes and preventing upward progress. Some flakes were attached with no visible means of support. I'll try it again with an alpine harness without gear loops. It's a very tight squeeze for those who seek out such features.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Mar 10, 2015

Finally did this the other day and this time I stuck to the outside edge and even then encountered one or two constrictions that I had trouble thructching past. I even put on my mountaineering harness that had no gear loops or other protrusions. It's a good route if you're looking to burn off a thousand calories or so.

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