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Menses Prow
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing 
Abscessed Words to Climb 
After Dark 
Armies Of Metaphors 
B.O.S.S. Method, The 
Back for More 
Baroque Period, The 
Bat Crack 
Big Chill, The 
Chiba Chiba 
Cosmic Thing 
Dealin' Crack 
Dumb Waiter 
Fever 
First Blood 
First Strike 
Flashback To Acid Beach 
Graceland 
Jumbo Pumping Love 
Krakatoa 
Lamontís Period  
Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump 
Light Days 
Liquid Affair 
Lunch at the Y 
Menses 
Metaphysical Fictions 
My What a Big Bulge 
No Passion for Fashion 
Original Route 
Period Epic 
Period Piece 
Pig Dictionary 
Prima Nocta  
Pueblo Gringos 
Red Dog 
Scratch and Claw 
Shelf's Worst Route 
Slender Fungus 
Smart Server 
Smokin' Crack 
Stratabulge 
Sudden Impact 
Sundogs 
Thirteen Engines 
True to Tradition/Tucker's Faith 
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine 
Weed n' Feed 
Unsorted Routes:

Shelf's Worst Route 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 475
Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

If I remember correctly it is Knapp's Shelf Road guide that gives this route the name. I don't really understand why though. It is actually a pretty good route (IMHO).

To find the route, hike into the Gallery canyon and up to the Menses' Prow. Head left (west) to the California Ethics Pinnacle. Directly behind this pinnacle is Bat Crack, a hand crack/chimney with guano. Just to the right of this is a bolted line that trends slightly to the right; this is the route.

Fun crimping and high-stepping will get you through the fun little blank section. After this, the rock becomes somewhat camouflaged and it may require some searching to find the holds. They are all there; just be patient. Add a little bit of bulge to the top section and it really gets fun. The rock is a little bit chippy in places, so be careful.


Protection 

Van Horn says 7 bolts and anchors ("Unknown" in the new book, route 51 in the Gallery section).



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By Walt Wehner
Oct 18, 2001

Having climbed this a number of years ago, I can tell you where the name came from. The route was (years ago, anyway) one of the worst choss piles at Shelf. And that's saying something. I remember a terrifying onsight attempt cut short by several holds breaking simultaneously, back in the day. I have no doubt that it's cleaned up significantly since then, though, and the route trends right enough that the belayer generally isn't in too much danger. Bolts are solid, too. So have at it!