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Wind Tower - S Face
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Sheer Terror 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b X

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b X [details]
FA: Skip Guerin, Chip Ruckgaber, 1983
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Pins [details]
Page Views: 3,677
Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Apr 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BH on 2nd ascent of Sheer Terror.

2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>


Pull up into the roof's apex and crimp up and right to a left-angling, slopey ramp. This is the last chance to chicken out and avoid a really, really, bad fall (great climbing, though). Commit to the slopey ramp and find more hard climbing and similar commiting moves into the final dihedral, where more heinously great and commiting moves are to be found until the top is gratefully reached.

If Skip Guerin did this in '83, and Fire' climbing shoes didn't get imported to the U.S. until '84, it means Skip did this in EBs, and thus makes him the burliest human I know. That or he's the devil.


Sheer Terror starts in an obvious roof apex about 20'-30' down and to the right of the Scotch and Soda roof. They actually kinda look like roof twinsies.


Clip 2 OLD pins and an OLD fixed stopper in the roof's apex. This tat will keep you from grounding for the route's technical crux. A crappy red Alien and all the RPs you own are what's left for pro for the next 60'-70'. A pin anchor is at the top.

Per Brad G: there are no longer any pins at the anchor, just an old rusty nut.

Photos of Sheer Terror Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the route.
Finishing the route.

Comments on Sheer Terror Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 10, 2007

He, he, he. Nice one, Hank! Congrats, bro-.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Apr 11, 2007

Nice job! I was walking out of the canyon on Monday about 6pm or so and saw you coming down. I guess I just missed the big show.

What ever happened to Skip G?
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 13, 2007

Hank, killer 2nd ascent. It really puts Skip's climbing talent into perspective given how long ago that was climbed, the gear he was using, the rock shoes he was probably wearing, and the crude mind altering substances he was on at the time of his lead. Let's also give credit to his equally fuked up belayer, Chip Rockgrabber.
Skip can usually be found partying up on the hill with college chics.
By Brad G
From: Yosemite and elsewhere
Jun 25, 2014

There are no longer any pins at the anchor, just an old rusty nut.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 25, 2014

Heads up on the poison ivy at the base of the route.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2014

The poison ivy is the least of your worries on this route. :)
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 2, 2014

As the fearless belayer, it actually is.

Maybe it is second behind the manky anchor ripping while I am screaming TAKE on toprope.
By slim
Jul 2, 2014

You should put together a risk assessment/hazard analysis chart for this route. That would be pretty funny - the whole thing would pretty much be red.
By Brad G
From: Yosemite and elsewhere
Jul 20, 2014

The poison ivy at the base is the most of Phil's worries.
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 16, 2015

Yes, Skip Guerin was truly the baddest and the best in The West. He may have had sticky rubber Fire shoes. I got my first pair in June 1983. They weren't available the first half of that year. Either way, this is one lead I had no interest in repeating.

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