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 ADVANCED
(3) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
Kashmir S 
Let's Just Call It Kashmir Direct? S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 

Sheer Stress 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Charlie Priest & Charlie Martin-1975
Page Views: 2,336
Submitted By: Adam Therneau on Jun 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Top of p1.

Description 

This is the mega classic thin crack/corner to the right of Classic Crack on the Red Wall.

Pitch 1 - A balancey mix of face and liebacking gets you through the first twenty feet, which is the crux. After this a fun mantle and easier but engaging climbing takes you to the bolted anchor.

Pitch 2 - Traverse right to a large block then follow the hand and finger crack through the overhanging upper wall to the right of Pinhead. The last ten feet are surprisingly steep and give the route an exciting, perfectly protected crux finish.

Location 

At the top of the approach trail go right 50ft to the Red Wall. Obvious thin crack with lots of chalk to the right of classic crack and thai stick.

Protection 

Pro to .75", extra small nuts and microcams for the first pitch. Pitch two takes pro to 2" and one #3 camalot to protect the finish.


Photos of Sheer Stress Slideshow Add Photo
follow the rope to 1st anchor over the arete
follow the rope to 1st anchor over the arete
very fun
very fun
Having fun on Sheer Stress.
Having fun on Sheer Stress.
Amy, smooth as silk.
Amy, smooth as silk.

Comments on Sheer Stress Add Comment
Show which comments
By peachy spohn
Aug 19, 2007

one of the best 5.10 climbs at Broughtons.
By BenCooper
From: Wyoming
Nov 22, 2009

Agreed. A fine climb with some very thin moves through the crux. I placed one #0 TCU, and that seemed sufficient through the crux. Another one wouldn't hurt though. I'd recommend being solid at the grade on this one.