This route is located in the recess to the left of Moonlight and shares that route's first pitch and a half. It breaks out left at this point and follows an interesting line of corners, flakes and face climbing with a cool, steep jamming pitch as the finale.
This is a fun route that doesn't get as much traffic as the surrounding trade routes. Aiding the whole route would probably warrant a slightly harder rating (C2ish?). This route is best enjoyed as a long free climb with the occasional french-free move as opposed to climbing it "wall style". The aid is straight-forward and when it gets tricky a moderate free move will get you to the next bomber placement. The only pitch we aided in entirety was the crux 5.13 RP crack (there's a 12b variation that starts down and right) and the rest of the route went free or french-free. The bolts are like Moonlight's: fat and bomber.
- Two each #.5 - #3 Camalot
- One each. #3.5 and #4 Camalot
- Double set of TCUs/Aliens (offset Aliens helpful)
- One set of RPs (offset HBs helpful)
May 13, 2014
Classic climbing. We noted a couple of dangerous loose features: a detached LCD-monitor-sized flake just after the 2nd pitch 5.10 crux (tread lightly), and the topout tree/branch which is barely clinging to life and flexes terrifyingly when you inevitably step on it to top out.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 28, 2005
Two friends and I did this route on 11/25/05. It was a great route, tons of fun, very mellow aid. There were only a few times where an aid piece was anything less than bomber.
The topo from www.bigwall.com worked well, however we didn't need or use any cam hooks or lowe balls. Hybrid aliens, and offset HB's were great. Fixed gear was fine...there were a few more bolts and drilled pitons than seemed necessary, though.
Oct 21, 2008
Camalots: Two each #.5 - #4 (#4s only used on pitch 9)
Aliens: two blues, triples through red. Offsets not needed.
One set of offset nuts (brass and aluminum)
Pitch 8&9 link easily.
Could link pitch 10 and half of pitch 11 (intermediate anchor).
|By Adam Sanders|
From: Louisville, CO
Dec 4, 2010
Can someone give me an idea of what the grade would be if you aided pretty much all that you could? What is the hardest mandatory free climbing, keeping the aid grade at about C2?
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Dec 4, 2010
I believe it's about 5.9 C2.
|By Stevie Nacho|
Dec 4, 2010
I'd rate it C2-. I've done it twice and aided most of it. I probably claim 5.8/5.9 being the hardest I freed. Take a big cam and some brassies. This route is funner than it looks.
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Apr 3, 2014
Conversely if you want to french free or fraid through the tough free sections this climb is an absolute riot, and goes way faster than something like moonlight or lunar X. Highly recommend not using aiders or jugs until the last pitch off toquerville tower.
|By greg t|
Jun 27, 2014
When in doubt, Fraid it out