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Sheep's Nose

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10 Sheep and a Goat T 
An Apostle or Two  T 
Army Route  T 
Assassination Slab  T 
Chinook T 
Direct Line  T 
Evening Stroll T,TR 
For Wimps Only  T 
Friction T 
Golden Fleece  T 
Hard Monkeys  T 
Harpoon The Manta Ray  T 
It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 
Lamb's Prey T 
Lost in Space T 
Old Man Route  T 
Ozone Direct T 
Pimp, The T 
Pit of Despair, The 
Psycho Babble T 
Seamis T,TR 
Sheep in Wolves Clothing  T 
Sheep with a Silver Tail T 
Sheepís Dare  T 
Sheer Sheep Attack  T 
Southeast Face T 
Space Cadet  T 
Ten Years After T 
Unknown T,TR 
When Sheep are Nervous T 

Sheep's Nose 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.14092, -105.19385 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,493
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 10, 2002
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Route info.

Description 

This is 600 feet of friendly granite close to the road, 40 routes of cracks and face of all difficulty, 1 to 5 pitchs in length, a classic 5.9 on the South Face, need I say more?


Getting There 

From Boulder: take US 285 to Pine Junction. Right on CO Hwy 126 to Deckers. South on CO 67 through Deckers. Take a right at West Creek on S.R. 68. Continue for about a half-mile and look for a large dome on the right. Park at a pullout below the dome on the right side of the road at a break in the fence and the start of a small path. Hike this faint path to the base of the South Face.


30 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',11],['5.10',7],['5.11',6],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sheep's Nose:
Unknown   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Evening Stroll   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR   
Southeast Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R     Trad, 5 pitches   
Ten Years After   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Lost in Space   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   
Chinook   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Ozone Direct   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Seamis   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Sheep's Nose

Featured Route For Sheep's Nose
Darin Lang at the beginning of the Ozone variation to Lost in Space.

Ozone Direct 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  CO : South Platte : ... : Sheep's Nose
This is a very good and nicely exposed alternate finish to Lost in Space, ascending the left margin of the left-facing, left-leaning dihedral which is obvious when you are at the third belay of Lost in Space (right after the 5.4 corner). From this belay, move left 15 feet past an ancient buttonhead to an incipient crack in the slab above. Mantle through the crux to a nice hand jam under the dihedral/roof, move left around the corner and then lieback and face climb all...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Sheep's Nose
Photos of Sheep's Nose Slideshow Add Photo
Little does she know, Tina's about to be eaten.
Little does she know, Tina's about to be eaten.
Sheep's Nose from the south.
Sheep's Nose from the south.
View of Pike's Peak from high on the Sheep's Nose.
View of Pike's Peak from high on the Sheep's Nose.
December sun on Sheep's Nose.
December sun on Sheep's Nose.
Sheep's Nose from the road.
Sheep's Nose from the road.
Sheep's Nose massif.
Sheep's Nose massif.
Finished just in time.
Finished just in time.
View from the S.W.
BETA PHOTO: View from the S.W.
When sheep are nervous?
When sheep are nervous?
The back of Sheep's Nose from the top of Sheep Rock
BETA PHOTO: The back of Sheep's Nose from the top of Sheep Roc...
View from the South.
BETA PHOTO: View from the South.
Comments on Sheep's Nose Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 6, 2010
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Apr 19, 2002

The path to Sheep's Nose offers some quality bouldering. Throw a crashpad in your car and enjoy some really cool boulder problems.

By William Prehm
Apr 24, 2002

Along with some excellent bouldering there is also some good tope ropes on the bigger boulders. Brings some slings because the bolts are on the tops of the boulders. One of the best problems is a thin crack that moves diagonally left to right across the face of one of the larger boulders. Near the approach to Ten Years After.

By Bryson Slothower
Jul 8, 2002

07/08/02Does anyone know how if this area is closed or burned from the Hayman fire?B-

By Anonymous Coward
May 19, 2003

Bring your tape gloves. A great place to work on your flaired crack climbing skills. I loved this place.

By Dan Russell
May 19, 2003

Sheep's Nose is open as of a few weeks ago, as is Turkey. You can only park where there are posted parking signs. It's still considered a burn area, so be careful of flash flooding in the event of a heavy rain.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 14, 2003

The fire swept through this area pretty well. Virtually all of the trees surrounding Sheep's Nose are burned and ash covers the ground. It's a little like being on the moon. Some of the boulders surrounding the base were damanaged by the fire, but most seem relatively intact save for some blackened spots. Looks like all the climbs on the formation itself are fine.mike.

By Dan Russell
Jul 14, 2003

It does kind of look like the moon, but most of the bouldering was unaffected fortunately. For instance... the Air Jordan Boulder has black stumps and dirt around it, but the boulder itself has barely a black mark. It makes bouldering up there a really unique experience right now, as long as you can put up with a bit of soot on your pad..

By Dan Russell
Jul 26, 2003

I just finished a new video of Sheep's Nose bouldering. It's up in the Videos Section on my website, www.coloradospringsclimbing.com. Check it out.

By Anonymous Coward
May 3, 2004

Ahhh...swamis, painters pants, EB's with the super duper leather side panel mod, the bee-gees, saturday night fever.... god how I miss the 70's....

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 14, 2009

Has anyone done when sheep are nervous? we jumped on it today because another party was on lost in space. A very confusing climb... We scrambled up to the ledge next to the second pitch of lost in space and went up some 5.9- cracks up to a large ledge below three cracks. Then we chose the center crack which led up to a small roof, pulled that and then traversed to the right. Then up a quick 5.5ish pitch to the top. Goes along with the picture I uploaded.

By Roger Rumsey
Jun 15, 2009

Climbed the Southeast Face route this past Saturday (6/13/09)and really enjoyed the fun route finding challenges. It was nice to get on a line that we had virtually no beta for and use our route finding skills to get up. Only one concern. There was a HUGE swarm of bees in the prominent gully on the Southeast face (climber's right of the start of the SE face route). I have never witnessed a swarm of bees in those numbers! They were swarming approximately 100 feet to the right of and level with the first belay. They were not apparent or visible to us from where we started. I would speculate that they probably maintain a nest somewhere in that gully system? Fortunately, we had no incidents with them for the remainder of the route. Just wanted everyone to be aware of that potential issue in that area of the dome. Be safe!

By DICK HURTZ
Jun 15, 2009

I have a beehive on my house. Once a year, at about this time, they divide the colony in half. It starts with a huge cloud of swarming bees, in an hour or two they will clump up in a football sized mass about 100 feet from the original hive. In a few days scouts will locate a new nest site, and the queen and the mass move on. Relatively harmless unless they're killer bees down south.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Dec 19, 2009

Can a 2WD low clearance vehicle make it to Sheep's nose tomorrow?

By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Dec 19, 2009

Yes, the roads aren't too bad right now. Turkey Rocks might be another story.

By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Dec 6, 2010

Climbed yesterday 12/5/2010 our own variation of Lost in Space. Roads are completely dry to Sheep's Nose. Half a mile up, just after the turn for Turkey (where we were headed), the road was thick ice on a downhill turning slope. A 4wd with chains would have done it, but we were worried about hitting the wall on the way in and not being able to get out with our 2WD.