|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 125'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||richard magill on Sep 19, 2011|
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By richard magill
Sep 19, 2011
Wow, is my memory going! I helped bolt this route (in 1997?) with Tod Anderson, Ernie Moscovics, and Tom Hanson, as I recall. I knew it was long but I didn't remember how long this line is.
Went back there this fall with the wife and thought I could do it with a 70 M rope and only 18 draws. Sport Climbing Epic!
Ran out of draws (after the crux, thankfully) near the top and started skipping clips and using single biners to clip (obviously I subconsciously knew that was coming because I had several biners on my harness). Realized I couldn't get down without some shenanigans, as we only had one rope. Not a good feeling, to be well over 100 ft up, no anchors in site, knowing I can't lower and I am out of draws!
Thankfully lowered off the midpoint anchors on "If Dreams were Thunder" and was able to get my stuff off the route without too much drama.
Funny, normally when you get in this situation, you think "what madman bolted this thing"? But you don't normally answer that with, "oh yeah, I'm the madman"!
By Abe Dubs
From: Bozeman, Montana
Sep 28, 2014
Climbed this with a 70m rope but be aware that you can't clean the route on lower/rappel with a 70m. When I lowered, with rope stretch I could just touch my toes to the ground, far from the start of the climb. To clean the route, my partner belayed from the spot I had just lowered to and I top roped it, cleaning as I climbed. Knot the ends of your rope!
By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Jul 6, 2015
|I got down with a trimmed 70m rope no problem. (About ten feet trimmed off.) With rope stretch. Make sure you always tie a knot in the end of your rope! I was also able to clean as I lowered. I didn't clip the first two bolts though.|
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 18, 2015
|Very long and fun route. Rock is a bit muddy looking but otherwise a great climb. The climb could be as soft as 11b/c so if your not quite a 5.12 climber, this could be a great first. I had fun on this one.....|
From: Portland, OR
Aug 21, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
|Super fun climbing on juggy rock. As others have voiced, it's a couple letter grades soft for the grade. exposure on the arete is fantastic! Takes 20 draws plus anchors (currently two biners on anchors). It take a WHOLE 70m rope to get down. The only way to clean it is on top rope, so plan on that.|