This route has a similar profile to Smith's famed Chain Reaction, but this route is way juggy and about twice as long. Holy Moly is this a long route!
A bunch of super fun climbing leads up the steepness to a crux at about 90 feet: the crux isn't a 5.12 move (probably 11) but by the time you hit the crux, the pump is deep in your veins!
Why not 4 stars? One, the whole buttress is a bit crumbly compared to the routes up at Mondo Beyondo. And two, the final 35 feet just aren't as good as the first 90 feet. Finally, if you have been paying attention to the math, you can't do this route with a single 70M rope - it is too long. So you either have to trail a rope or if you fail to do that you will have to do a messy leaver biner rappel OR potentially a funky double rap/lower using the midpoint anchors on the route to the left. Acck!
All this needs to jump to a 4 star route is an anchor just after the crux, say at about 95 feet, and a little traffic to clean things up. Any civic-minded bolters out there, this would be a great service! Make sure you add the anchors AFTER the crux (just under the little roof would be good) and it won't change the grade at all.
This a really fun line!
On the sharp overhanging arete on the right side of the buttress.
About 25 bolts to anchors at 125 feet. Bring 2 ropes! You won't get down with a single 70 M.
Photo By Bryson Slothower.
|By richard magill|
Sep 19, 2011
Wow, is my memory going! I helped bolt this route (in 1997?) with Tod Anderson, Ernie Moscovics, and Tom Hanson, as I recall. I knew it was long but I didn't remember how long this line is.
Went back there this fall with the wife and thought I could do it with a 70 M rope and only 18 draws. Sport Climbing Epic!
Ran out of draws (after the crux, thankfully) near the top and started skipping clips and using single biners to clip (obviously I subconsciously knew that was coming because I had several biners on my harness). Realized I couldn't get down without some shenanigans, as we only had one rope. Not a good feeling, to be well over 100 ft up, no anchors in site, knowing I can't lower and I am out of draws!
Thankfully lowered off the midpoint anchors on "If Dreams were Thunder" and was able to get my stuff off the route without too much drama.
Funny, normally when you get in this situation, you think "what madman bolted this thing"? But you don't normally answer that with, "oh yeah, I'm the madman"!