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Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 40.433, -105.5299
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,531 total · 20/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Dec 22, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Sheep Mountain Rock is the long south-facing cliff band (350 feet high by 1,500 feet long) located on the north side of the valley about 2 miles from the trailhead, where its low-angled eastern flank can be seen. With an approach longer than any at nearby Lumpy Ridge, routes no more than 4 pitches long, and containing only 10 routes, it's not exactly a hot climbing destination. But its uniqueness, solitude, and two classic routes (Double Fantasy - 5.10a and Glimmerton Corner - 5.10b) make the hike in worthwhile, especially if you're looking for a break from Lumpy.

The best descent for all routes is a gully to the west, and although an eastern descent isn't mentioned and I haven't tried it, it may be feasible for routes closer to that side.

Getting There Suggest change

There's not exactly a standard approach as there's no trail from the main trail to the rock - not even a faint "climber's trail." But to start with, head west from McGraw Ranch along the Cow Creek Trail as if you're heading to Bridalveil Falls. When the rock is in full view, look around for whatever looks like the best way up. Guidebooks suggest to start heading up at either the Gem Lake junction or just beyond the trail to Rabbit Ears campground. Whether you choose one of these or find a better way, you'll be hiking uphill farther than you would to Sundance - without the benefit of a trail.

L->R:

Suggest change
A. Double Fantasy, 10-, 3p, 320', gear.
B. Wuthering Heights, 9 R, 3p, gear.
C. Pennystone Crag, 9+, 3p, gear.
DC. Lamb's Skin, 8, 3p, gear.
E. Gimmerton Corner, 10, 3p, 350', gear.
F? One of these days, Felix, 10+, 4p, gear.
G? Stone Pillar, 10, 3p, gear.
H. Himmelfahrt, 10, 4p, gear.
I. Thrushcross Grange, 7, 2-3p, gear.
J. High Road, 0, 2-3p, gear.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sheep Mountain Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Double Fantasy
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Gimmerton Corner
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Fantasy
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Gimmerton Corner
 8
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Sheep Mountain Rock »

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