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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Not My Cross To Bear 
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Ordinary People 
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Shear Strength 
Sheer Lunacy 
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Unsorted Routes:

Shear Strength 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, April 1988
Page Views: 3,371
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jun 9, 2002
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Dillon on the lead- Penitente Canyon.

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This route is on the NE facing Mercy Wall, just across the canyon from the Virgin Wall. It goes into the shade by 1pm in the summer and is a good option while the rest of the canyon roasts.

Eds. this is the middle route on the wall that follows the seam. The guidebook is actually incorrect. The previously submitted description was that of Dazed and Confuzed.


5-6 bolts and anchors.

Photos of Shear Strength Slideshow Add Photo
Jackie Hueftle on route.  Photo: Andy Mann.
Jackie Hueftle on route. Photo: Andy Mann.
K. McLaughlin on the F.A.
K. McLaughlin on the F.A.
On lead.
On lead.
Great Penitente crack!
Great Penitente crack!
Comments on Shear Strength Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 26, 2002

Short and sweet like most of the routes at Penitente. Definitely gives a pump which outweighs its length.

By Dougald MacDonald
May 14, 2007

Super-fun and interesting climbing. More like Eldo than Penitente.

By FC John
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 7, 2010

Very Cool slab/tips climbing leads to a cruxy heady last move. Reminded me of the moves on Eldo's Superslab.

By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 18, 2011

Fantastic! Great technical moves - and what a striking line!

By William Mondragon
From: My car
Oct 17, 2012

Go back to Boulder! This thing is straight out of Penitente. Way more pockets on this than one might think.

By slim
Oct 17, 2012

Way more pockets at Eldo than one might think....

By Devin Fin
Oct 18, 2012

Slim, I'm going have to go with Sr. William on this one. There are more pockets then you would think...but don't go back to Boulder, Slim. I respect you an' yer posts .... Sr. William is the fresh prince of Del North...an' I respect that...he does a lot of work in the valley.

By slim
Oct 18, 2012

Coolio. Just horsing around a bit - although Eldo does indeed have more pockets/huecos than one might think.