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Idiot's Deluxe 
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Shealyn's Way 
Shemp Lives 
Squeeze My Lemon 

Shealyn's Way 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: david quinn 7/00
Page Views: 1,777
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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dave cote climbing in the wet conditions that ofte...
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Location 

Starts in the obvious chimney left of A Week With Pete.On the left side of the crag.


Description 

A great 5.7 climb involving all different techniques, from chimney to slab to stemming and a few steep pulls at the top.

Start in the chimney right of A Week With Pete.
Climb up the chimney clipping bolts to your left then climb out of the chimney on to the slab on the left, no real friction needed but it's much less than vertical. Follow straight up til you get to the steep wall. Move left in to the corner and STEM up the corner (NOTE: people who don't understand stemming will find this part very hard for the grade.). When possible, move back up and right to gain a few steep jug pulls and a nice stance to clip from.

A must climb at the grade.


Protection 

11 bolts to quick clips.



Photos of Shealyn's Way Slideshow Add Photo
Some interesting moves
Some interesting moves
The first part of the climb
The first part of the climb
Stemming
Stemming
Fun moves coming over this bulge to the anchors
Fun moves coming over this bulge to the anchors
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Comments on Shealyn's Way Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 28, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

this route is often tarnished by wetness but it can still be done even if it is wet, so if you get to rumney and this route is dry you must get on it

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 13, 2011

Wet or Dry this route is killer. One of the best at rumney for its grade!

By SYBold
Oct 26, 2012

If you're toproping and once you've anchored in, remove the last quickdraw before lowering because the rope can clip back into it (both ropes are in the quickdraw).

Don't know if that occurs everytime, but it happened to us. Hope that is clear.

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA
Feb 26, 2014

Climb it in high summer when it's dry it's a terrific route. It wanders and involves lots of fun stemming and interesting climbing. It's got kind of an alpine feel near the top in the final notch. Fun, fun, fun!