Pitch 1 (5.4, 60') The approach pitch to the ledge at the base of the arch (described in the introduction to the Keyhole Arch area). Caution: poor rock quality and plenty of loose. Equalized bush belay (bring very long runners).
Pitch 2 (5.9, 50') Begins on the east face of the arch, approximately 15' to the north of the arch opening. Ascend a thin flaring crack (difficult to protect) to a good ledge (1st crux). Stay left to follow finger crack and broken ledge system to a very large ledge (2' wide). Pull mantle on a verticle to slighly overhung block to gain summit (long arms help and this move may be protected by slinging a small bush). Gear and bush anchor. This climb is not sustained with only a few 5.9 moves. Again, there is much loose rock - climb and place gear with caution.
Descent: Simul-rappel with your partner off opposite sides of the arch!
Small to medium stoppers, #0.3-0.75 Camalots, slings to minimize rope drag.
|Comments on She Only Likes Hardmen
|By Joel Moen|
From: Sheridan, WY
Mar 27, 2011
This is a super exciting lead, requiring control of your sketch-ball head-space. The first couple pieces of pro are marginal, and would not likely hold a lead fall. Be extra sure of rock security before committing to your moves! Funnest rappel I've ever made. Cheers team Buckskin!