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Keyhole Arch
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She Only Likes Hardmen 

She Only Likes Hardmen 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joel Moen and Tom Johannesmeyer, March 26, 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: Mr Clean on Mar 27, 2011
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Description 

Pitch 1 (5.4, 60') The approach pitch to the ledge at the base of the arch (described in the introduction to the Keyhole Arch area). Caution: poor rock quality and plenty of loose. Equalized bush belay (bring very long runners).

Pitch 2 (5.9, 50') Begins on the east face of the arch, approximately 15' to the north of the arch opening. Ascend a thin flaring crack (difficult to protect) to a good ledge (1st crux). Stay left to follow finger crack and broken ledge system to a very large ledge (2' wide). Pull mantle on a verticle to slighly overhung block to gain summit (long arms help and this move may be protected by slinging a small bush). Gear and bush anchor. This climb is not sustained with only a few 5.9 moves. Again, there is much loose rock - climb and place gear with caution.

Descent: Simul-rappel with your partner off opposite sides of the arch!


Protection 

Small to medium stoppers, #0.3-0.75 Camalots, slings to minimize rope drag.



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