She Goes Both Ways 5.8
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | dean wishart 2002 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on May 25, 2009 |
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Me making a BIG move on a 10ish TR variation betwe...
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Description If i got the right name on this one the name would make sense because this could very easily be done on gear but there are bolts so i guess she could go both ways...
I wasn't sure about this one looking up at it but it turned out to be really good... one of the best routes out here... The bottom seeps but you can avoid the wet by traversing in to the crack from the left on good edges...
Straight forward, follow the bolted crack up a bunch of fingerlocks jams and laybacks to a bulge which marks the mantel move crux... Balance your way over the bulge and climb left to the quick clip anchors...
Location The crack in the middle of the main area of the G-Spot...
Protection 5-6 bolts to quick clips or practice with some trad gear...
Nicole avoiding the big move by using a crimp out ...
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| Comments on She Goes Both Ways |
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By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.8
| I really enjoyed this one. Fun finger locks!
A fun 5.10ish TR variation is to head up between Lichen Lickin and the wet start of She Goes Both Ways. Encroaching a little on LL, head straight up to a knob on the overlap above (horizontally aligned w/ the 2nd bolt on LL). Work your feet up and either make a BIG move to a decent left hand side pull or dance (and balance) your feet up high to gain a tiny crimp before reaching statically to the side pull. A few non-presenting jugs give access to the 10ft of She Goes Both Ways. Enjoyable. |
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