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 ADVANCED
The G-Spot
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bumpin the Gate S 
Drillin' in My Dreams S 
Drip of Fools S 
Kagels and Locks S 
Layback and Relax S 
Lichen Lickin S 
She Goes Both Ways S 

She Goes Both Ways 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: dean wishart 2002
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 25, 2009

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Me making a BIG move on a 10ish TR variation betwe...

Description 

If i got the right name on this one the name would make sense because this could very easily be done on gear but there are bolts so i guess she could go both ways...

I wasn't sure about this one looking up at it but it turned out to be really good... one of the best routes out here... The bottom seeps but you can avoid the wet by traversing in to the crack from the left on good edges...

Straight forward, follow the bolted crack up a bunch of fingerlocks jams and laybacks to a bulge which marks the mantel move crux... Balance your way over the bulge and climb left to the quick clip anchors...


Location 

The crack in the middle of the main area of the G-Spot...


Protection 

5-6 bolts to quick clips or practice with some trad gear...



Photos of She Goes Both Ways Slideshow Add Photo
Nicole avoiding the big move by using a crimp out right on the crux of a 10ish TR variation between <a href='/v/drillin-in-my-dreams/106441351'>Drillin' in My Dreams</a> and <a href='/v/she-goes-both-ways/106441360'>She Goes Both Ways</a>
Nicole avoiding the big move by using a crimp out ...
Comments on She Goes Both Ways Add Comment
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By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I really enjoyed this one. Fun finger locks!

A fun 5.10ish TR variation is to head up between Lichen Lickin and the wet start of She Goes Both Ways. Encroaching a little on LL, head straight up to a knob on the overlap above (horizontally aligned w/ the 2nd bolt on LL). Work your feet up and either make a BIG move to a decent left hand side pull or dance (and balance) your feet up high to gain a tiny crimp before reaching statically to the side pull. A few non-presenting jugs give access to the 10ft of She Goes Both Ways. Enjoyable.