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Routes in Metropolis Sector
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Blood Dries Darker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Captain Confusion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Metropolis S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Penultimate Man S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Shazam S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Dave Pegg |
| Page Views: | 1,576 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on May 6, 2003 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book.
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
Access Issue: Closures from February 15- August 15
Details
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
Description
This is just one route left of Metropolis and climbs up the nice, tan face to a strange incipient seam/offset on a steeper-than-it-looks headwall. The route does have a fair bit of Fortress Dust up high, which only adds to the challenge, but it is manageable. Bring, however, a toothbrush.
Start just left of Metropolis on ledgy ground and bust past three bolts to a small roof. Cryptic climbing leads up and left over the roof (5.12-) to a decent stance, then fun climbing--with long reaches between pretty good holds-- follows, to a decent shake on a three-finger pocket below the crux bulge. An intricate series of moves on sidepulls, gastons and finicky crimps gains better holds higher in the corner, but the pump clock keeps ticking all the way to the anchor. It might be a bit crumbly up there still ... This seems stout for the grade, but maybe it just needs some traffic and some brush-love. It is certainly not much easier, or just as hard as, Metropolis--and steeper. This is a good pump in a nice position.
Start just left of Metropolis on ledgy ground and bust past three bolts to a small roof. Cryptic climbing leads up and left over the roof (5.12-) to a decent stance, then fun climbing--with long reaches between pretty good holds-- follows, to a decent shake on a three-finger pocket below the crux bulge. An intricate series of moves on sidepulls, gastons and finicky crimps gains better holds higher in the corner, but the pump clock keeps ticking all the way to the anchor. It might be a bit crumbly up there still ... This seems stout for the grade, but maybe it just needs some traffic and some brush-love. It is certainly not much easier, or just as hard as, Metropolis--and steeper. This is a good pump in a nice position.
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