Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
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| Type: | Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | WI5+ M8 [details] |
| FA: | Jason Nelson |
| Season: | Winter |
| Submitted By: | Buster Jesik on Feb 6, 2011 |
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Description This route begins with an overhanging crack that leads into a shallow chimney. Clip the bolts off the ground, and place cam or maybe large stopper in the shallow chimney. Pull on the the curtain and clip another bolt at the junction between the ice and the roof. Traverse around the steep bulge and finish on easy ice. For a good picture click here.
Location Just right of Slip Sliding Away is a bolted, overhanging crack that leads to a steep curtain.
Protection Bolts, a cam or two (#0.75-#1) and a couple ice screws will get you to a nice, chain anchor.
| Comments on Shattered Dreams |
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By Buster Jesik From: CO Feb 6, 2011
| If anyone knows the F.A. credits, post up, I'll update. |
By Jason Nelson From: SLC, UT Apr 24, 2011
| Hey Buster. I put this one up. I recall the gear beta being a red and blue Camalot, and if the ice is thin before the anchor, a purple Camalot can go in there. |
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