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Shattered Dreams 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2007
Page Views: 2,508
Submitted By: C Miller on Sep 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Some good crack action on this climb. Working the ...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start the climb directly (or by coming in from the right by liebacking up a block) and then climb the vertical zig-zag crack via liebacking, face climbing and even some jamming to a tricky scrunch move (crux) at the last bolt to finish on a ledge with anchors. Note: the use of long draws on bolts 4 and 5 is advised to keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the crack.

The route features moderate, big-hold climbing for most of it's length and despite the somewhat awkward crux at the top makes an excellent warm-up for the more difficult routes nearby. Also, be aware that the "Pigeon Hotel" (located between bolts #5 and #6) is currently open for business - so plan accordingly.

Location 

This is a bolted version of the lower portion of Unexpected Difficulties, and is easily identified by the jagged crack system as well as the "cookies + milk" graffiti at the base; just left of this is Peter Principle.

Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Shattered Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shadow dancing up Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Rivers...
Shadow dancing up Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Rivers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave near the top and mid-crux on Shattered Dreams...
Dave near the top and mid-crux on Shattered Dreams...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting good jams low on Shattered Dreams (5.10c),...
Getting good jams low on Shattered Dreams (5.10c),...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux moves on Shattered Dreams, 5.10c...
Starting the crux moves on Shattered Dreams, 5.10c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Riverside Quarry
BETA PHOTO: Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Riverside Quarry
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway through the crux moves on Shattered Dreams,...
Midway through the crux moves on Shattered Dreams,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shattered Dreams, quite a creepy and beautiful lin...
Shattered Dreams, quite a creepy and beautiful lin...

Comments on Shattered Dreams Add Comment
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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A good steep climb with a distinctive crux. The lower section of the climb is pure fun on jugs. The middle section is a little awkward, but the last part is definitely tricky.
By NeuralMilkHotel
From: California
Dec 24, 2015

Great route. Your hand jams may reach into inner crimps or jugs. Going higher you can get a leg or shin in. Note that while executing these moves, you might loosen some rock towards belayer.

Also note, that at the crux there's a very chalked up jug that is loose.

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