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Some good crack action on this climb. Working the ...
Start the climb directly (or by coming in from the right by liebacking up a block) and then climb the vertical zig-zag crack via liebacking, face climbing and even some jamming to a tricky scrunch move (crux) at the last bolt to finish on a ledge with anchors. Note: the use of long draws on bolts 4 and 5 is advised to keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the crack.
The route features moderate, big-hold climbing for most of it's length and despite the somewhat awkward crux at the top makes an excellent warm-up for the more difficult routes nearby. Also, be aware that the "Pigeon Hotel" (located between bolts #5 and #6) is currently open for business - so plan accordingly.
This is a bolted version of the lower portion of Unexpected Difficulties
, and is easily identified by the jagged crack system as well as the "cookies + milk" graffiti at the base; just left of this is Peter Principle
7 bolts, chain anchors
Shadow dancing up Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Rivers...
Dave near the top and mid-crux on Shattered Dreams...
Getting good jams low on Shattered Dreams (5.10c),...
Starting the crux moves on Shattered Dreams, 5.10c...
BETA PHOTO: Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Riverside Quarry
Midway through the crux moves on Shattered Dreams,...
Shattered Dreams, quite a creepy and beautiful lin...
By Euan Cameron
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
A good steep climb with a distinctive crux. The lower section of the climb is pure fun on jugs. The middle section is a little awkward, but the last part is definitely tricky.
By Christopher Gian
Dec 24, 2015
Great route. Your hand jams may reach into inner crimps or jugs. Going higher you can get a leg or shin in. Note that while executing these moves, you might loosen some rock towards belayer.
Also note, that at the crux there's a very chalked up jug that is loose.