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 ADVANCED
Emerald City
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Toe Arete 
Black Magic Arete 
Callandor 
Constellation 
Diamond In The Rough S 
Father's Day T 
Fictitious Egg, The 
Flying Monkeys S 
Hollow Threat 
In The Middle 
Let the Wookie Win 
Lolliop Kids S 
Mandarin TR 
My Sexy Cranberry 
No Place Like Home S 
Oz S 
Perfect Pink 
Ruby Slippers S 
Sharp T 
Shelf Life 
Shining, The T 
Skittles 
Small Victories 
Whiteout T 
Whiteout Direct (aka Nerds) S 
Wolverine 
Yellow Brick Road S 
Unsorted Routes:

Sharp 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jamie Baker, Chris Linderman, 1989
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

The crack itself is fairly easy and secure. When the crack turns a ledge step left and pull onto a slab. Protect out of the thin crack and prctice your slab technique heading RIGHT is you want to get down safely or head left as the guidebook (and some demented individuals) recommends.

If you go right, build an anchor at the obvious bolt to TR or bring a second up.

I love this route, but some people think it's stupid. It's really a matter of taste I guess.

Location 

Walk around the corner left from the start of Whiteout and find the splitter crack near the corner.

Best bet is to rappel from a single bolt on No Place Like Home. This route really needs its own anchors.

Protection 

The initial crack take progressively smaller gear from #4.5 to #1 camalot sizes. The upper slab takes small TCUs. There is no fixed gear other than a bolt on the route No Place Like Home.


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By lhrowland
From: Frankfort, Ky
Sep 20, 2011

This route now has anchors.