Sharp  5.9- PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Jamie Baker, Chris Linderman, 1989 Submitted By:  Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The crack itself is fairly easy and secure. When the crack turns a ledge step left and pull onto a slab. Protect out of the thin crack and prctice your slab technique heading RIGHT is you want to get down safely or head left as the guidebook (and some demented individuals) recommends.

If you go right, build an anchor at the obvious bolt to TR or bring a second up.

I love this route, but some people think it's stupid. It's really a matter of taste I guess.

Location 

Walk around the corner left from the start of Whiteout and find the splitter crack near the corner.

Best bet is to rappel from a single bolt on No Place Like Home. This route really needs its own anchors.

Protection 

The initial crack take progressively smaller gear from #4.5 to #1 camalot sizes. The upper slab takes small TCUs. There is no fixed gear other than a bolt on the route No Place Like Home.