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 ADVANCED
Big Thompson Canyon Ice
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Sharky's Machine 

WI3 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 145'
Consensus: WI3 [details]
FA: Kyle Kingrey and Al Simons
New Route: Yes
Season: cold wet winters
Page Views: 1,430
Submitted By: allen simons on Jan 28, 2007

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Kyle enjoying the newly found climb.

Description 

Pitch one: Climb the Ice slab up the middle for 50 feet, then up the steeper left side for 20 feet (a couple of options at WI2+). Will take screws. Walks up the drainage to the next falls. (90 feet?)

Pitch two: Mutiple variations up short steep sections broken with good stances. The flow is 30 feet wide, we went up just right of center trying to take the steepest part (WI3). This pitch is 80 feet.

A nice climb if you don't mind the long steep hike. This climb is in the sun most of the day (amazing it formed at all), so it won't last long.

Location 

If you know where the Shark's Fin Wall or Friendship Seven is (1.3 miles past the tube). Park on the north side of US Highway 34 and hike up. There is a short fall 65-foot-tall flow across from Shark's Fin that is fun and named Ice Age but this is not the climb. Continue up the gully for a couple hundred yards taking the first large gully that splits left (west). Follow this up 2-3 hundred yards to the climb. The climb is in the center of the gully 3/4 of the way to the top of the ridge. It is visible from the road at the 1.1 mile mark from the tube, up high, white, north side of the road. Steep rough terrain hiking up and down.

Protection 

Solid screws. Pitch one, down climb or rap off of a tree. Pitch two, rap off a rock, look for old pro.


Photos of Sharky's Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Al Simons high above US Hwy 34.
Al Simons high above US Hwy 34.
Al climbing lower section of Sharky's.
Al climbing lower section of Sharky's.
Upper section of Sharky's Machine.
Upper section of Sharky's Machine.
2-5-07.
2-5-07.

Comments on Sharky's Machine Add Comment
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By kyle kingrey
From: Loveland
Feb 2, 2007

During the week of 1-22-07 Al Simons called me up and told me of a possible ice climb high above BTC. Later that day I went up with my binoculars and confirmed Al's suspicion. Indeed, very high above the Shark's Fin gully was a beautiful climb broken into two sections. Al and I made plans to climb it the next day. We started off by climbing 'Ice Age' a fun climb of about 50 feet of WI2+ or so. Then after some bushwhacking and a very warm, steep approach we arrived at what is now called 'Sharky's Machine'. The climb is well worth the hike and the exposure is phenomenal. This was a rare day (as is this winter). A first ascent on a south-facing slope, climbing good ice high above the canyon floor.
By kyle kingrey
From: Loveland
Feb 5, 2007

Climbed Sharky's on 2-5-07. Still in pretty good shape. The warm weather these next couple of days however will bring this climb down.
By allen simons
Feb 8, 2007

In my opinion, this is one of the best climbs to form in the Narrows. Don't call me a clown.