Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Sharkstooth conditions?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.

Email me.
Jun 30, 2014
Does anyone know what the conditions are like on the approach to the NE ridge (snow in The Gash, etc)? Crampons? Ice axe? Tom Fralich
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Nov 12, 2006
62 points
Jun 30, 2014
Tom, I was up at Cathedral Wall on Sat and there is a bunch of snow around the Loch and everywhere higher that I could see. We came down toward Lake of Glass so I didn't see up the Andrews side, but I'd imagine there is plenty of snow in the gash. We crossed snowfields with approach shoes and trekking poles, but avoided steeper snow for lack of pons and an axe. If I was headed to Sharkstooth I would take them personally. Hope that helps, or someone has more specific beta for you. Mark Hammond
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Joined Oct 17, 2006
187 points
Jun 30, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: officer friendly
Did the NE ridge of sharkstooth on 6/14. There was a lot of snow on the approach, I imagine not much has changed. I brought just an axe and partners had both crampons and axe each. Having both would definitely be worth it because you will be able to travel more quickly across the extensive snow (esp if you get a nice early start and snow is still firm). Route was completely dry and very enjoyable, as was rap route. Getting from base of raps back to packs at start of route was somewhat tricky we ended up traversing rock and doing one rap more straight down to packs. Consider bringing an axe each up the route to expedite this, but the top of snowfield may be sufficiently melted out by now... Have fun! mt.wilson
From Denver
Joined Jun 8, 2009
105 points
Jun 30, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: gg
Did Hallett on Saturday and the Saber yesterday. Hallett required an axe for a comfortable approach. The Saber/Petit didn't. The south-facing snow was melting out very quickly. We had buried a few beers in the snow and they were completely exposed by the time we rapped down to them. The Sharkstooth approach doesn't get as much sun, though. Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
1,187 points
Jul 2, 2014
Did the North East Ridge of Sharkstooth last sunday 6-29. The approach contained snow from the big bivy boulders ,up unitl the talus fields. Maybe 1/2 mile of each. We did the approach on the somewhat steep snow in approach shoes and trekking poles, although i was really wishing i had an axe, at least. After the last rap, you get deposited on some pretty steep snow, 40-45 degrees but we were able to skirt the snow on the rock most of the way, however, I once again found myself wanting an axe and spikes, mostly for convienence and for a more rapid descent, as the rock skirting was a good pucker above the steep snow, and time consuming. So, I would bring at least an axe on the approach. Bring the axe up the NE Ridge? Up to you. The descent we did skirting the rock near the snow worked out, but we both agreed was the definite crux of the entire route. Hope this Helps. We left a yellow C-3 in the wall... P2 i believe. If you grab it and are so inclined, give me a shout. Thanks Kiul
From Wheat Ridge
Joined Apr 15, 2010
16 points

Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.  

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!