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Kip Henrie on the first part of Shark Club.
There are two distinct sections on this climb: The first bit is superb jug hauling starting with a slight traverse (.10d).
To complete the .12a, don't clip the anchor bolts under the roof, instead clip the lead bolt to the right or the anchor and continue up. You get a no hands rest at the roof. Then the business starts; it's an overhanging, crimpy problem to some better holds up higher. The climb has some cool vertical fins, not unlike shark fins.
This starts right of Litmus Test
, i.e., the second bolted line right of the tree on the north side of Division
10 bolts to chains. You'll need 12 draws.
Kip Henrie on Shark Club.
By Jon Marek
Jun 10, 2015
Between the second and third bolts there is a solid thread that takes the bite off the scary, and possibly dangerous, traverse. It might be nice to have a shoulder length runner for this route.