|66 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.3 [details]|
|FA: ||? undocumented ? (1/2013 -T Bubb/M Spieker)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Closed Feb-Aug|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jan 27, 2013|
|Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>|
A few meters right of Water Grove, there is a second set of crack systems, another 10-15 meters north. There cross in a narrow "X." The one starting to the right and rising up and left is Shark Accrack.
Start up on a few slabby moves to reach a 5" crack for a few body lengths (perfect knee locks, crux) which quickly becomes a hand-crack. Cross a second crack system in the middle of the "X" just above a tree, and continue toward the top. There is a small overlap with a small poison ivy plant which is easily avoided at 2/3 of the height up to the top. Finish by climbing up the ridge to the South.
This climb is an obvious handcrack after the first 5 meters of offwidth and runs up and left from the base crossing a second wide crack system like an X. It is perhaps 30 meters down from the South end of Jaws, and 15m right of Water Groove.
Bring as much perfect-hands to wide-hands gear as you would want to place and a single wide piece (5") to protect the bottom if you think it necessary.
If I wanted to teach people to place hand-sized cams in a crack (2-3.5"), this would be where I would do it.