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Climb the crack on the left side of the Northwest Face. This entire climb can be done on face holds, using the crack for pro.
Pro to 3".
|By Mary Moser|
Mar 6, 2011
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c
This a very good route for a beginner leader. It's fun and easy to protect. At the top we traversed right and clipped the single bolt that is located just left of a TR anchor.
|By Justin D.A.|
Jan 31, 2012
Very good beginner climb! Easy downclimb or rappel anchors. Downclimb the opposite side of formation.
|By Dave Kos|
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.1 2 6 II MD 2a
Very easy - barely 5th class terrain - but there are couple of spots that make it fun. Would be a good first trad lead, but make sure you have a few big cams (2-3 inches). Hexes or tricams of the same size may work also.
Requires a gear anchor or at the top if you want to setup a TR (also big cams and/or smaller stuff with the use of long slings.) Not a great TR because the rope tends to get stuck in the crack or on flakes. There some bolts to the right (above Shardikawoopoopie) that can be used to TR most of the climbs on the left side of the face.
|By Ben Crowell|
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I MM 1c
My second trad lead. Very easy, which was fine by me. Debatable whether this is even class 5. Easy, solid placements for both cams and a couple of passive pieces. Miramontes's 5.3 is wildly out of whack IMO compared to the kind of old-school JT ratings you see in Vogel. For example, Vogel gives a 5.1 to B-1 at Trashcan Rocks, which is a much, much harder trad lead than this.
Feb 19, 2013
uhhhh, Vogel's 1992 guide and Joshua Tree West(Vogel) both rates this one 5.3