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 ADVANCED
Medlicott Dome, Right
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
15 Minutes of Fame S 
Bachar-Yerian T 
Big Time S 
Ciebola T 
Deflector T 
Going, The TR 
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1 S 
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P2 S 
Shard T 
Shiner S 
Shipoopi! S 
Slacker/Carrion T 
Techno Tango T 

Shard 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, George Ridgley, 8/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Jun 10, 2013

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2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Delicate knobby flake that leads to cool but a bit vegetated corner which thins and disappears (at the anchor). The climbing is not hard, but with a combination of potentially fragile knobs plus thin cams behind a not-super-bomber flake, this is a somewhat serious lead with an "alpine" feel.

Location 

Start up the easy start of the 5.7 flakes approach to You Asked For It/Lechlinski Flake/Swinger (about 100' down and left from Ciebola), then head up the left-facing flake above. There are more flakes to the left, this is the first one you can get to.

Protection 

Pro to 2" plus 3-4" cams for easy approach climbing (giant flake). Extra thin finger-finger cams for flake. Two bolt anchor. Use a 70m rope to lower, although it's probably possible to carefully rappel a bit right with a 60m.


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