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Chaos Creek
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Shaqtoolik 

M6+

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus: M6+ [details]
FA: Andy Sterns and Matt Klick
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 376
Submitted By: Matt Klick on Jan 28, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Shaqtoolik P1.

Description 

P1: A striking crack takes solid tool cams but with sketchy feet, especially as it moves out of a shallow alcove. A hand jam might help here. It's a cruxy start! Then get better tool strikes on hummock/dirt and chockstones above, with a rest halfway up. Make a few more moves in the crack before angling slightly left on good hooks and up over a small roof to a tree belay. It is sustained, pumpy, and engaging climbing.

P2: Immediately above the tree belay is an obvious, black corner. This is thin! It requires more delicate face climbing with adequate pro, but small, and sometimes hidden. Power over the last roof to snowy ledges and another tree belay.

Location 

This climb faces south but is located on what is otherwise N-S cliffs slightly uphill and south of the winter trail between Nymph and Chaos. We followed a skin track that heads over to lower Chaos and up. In this case, the cliff would be on your right, and Shaqtoolik around the first corner you'd encounter.

Protection 

P1: eats up all sorts of cams - mostly 0.75s, 1s, 2s, and a 3 (a 0.75 protects the last few roofs moves to the belay - a big evergreen on a ledge).

P2: is more delicate - smallest Aliens and small nuts before a chockstone or horn sling before pulling onto the ledges and another tree belay. The pro is not always obvious.


Photos of Shaqtoolik Slideshow Add Photo
Andy Sterns (Fairbanks, AK) leading over the last ...
Andy Sterns (Fairbanks, AK) leading over the last ...
Cliff as spied from the L-Hand skin track from Nym...
BETA PHOTO: Cliff as spied from the L-Hand skin track from Nym...

Comments on Shaqtoolik Add Comment
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By j wharton
Mar 10, 2013

This is a nice little route with a quick approach. Thanks for posting it, Matt and Andy! The first pitch seemed like well protected M6-ish climbing, although we had the benefit of a very sunny day, which let us hand jam without issue. The second pitch (maybe M5-ish) is a bit heads up, especially with the ledge so close below. A piton, or beak, might be nice, and would make the pitch safe. There's potential for a very hard, steep, trad protected M-route just to the left of this route.
By Matt Klick
Mar 11, 2013

Thanks, Josh, for climbing it and a reality check on grading (a taste we're still acquiring) -- as well as adding some beta on the tricky P2! Hope to keep seeing you guys around the Park.