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 ADVANCED
Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anarchist , The S 
Blinded By The Puss T,S 
Bloody Beetroots, The S 
Captain Moonlite T,S 
Clark Bar Crack T 
Cold Vein , The S 
Dyno Problem TR 
Exposed TR 
Fear The Wolf T 
Food Pyramid T,TR 
Forearm Frenzy T 
Half crack TR 
Hollow Arete, The TR 
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 
Its Own Spirit T,S 
Jungle Face T,TR 
Kilometer Variation 
Kyles Corner T,TR 
Magic Central S 
Marmalade T,TR 
Modern Collective T,S 
Mudskipper, The T,TR 
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 
P&H T 
Pisces T,TR 
Psycho Jap S 
Shape Shifter S 
Silver Wings S 
Sirius T,TR 
Spider T,TR 
Summer 
Super Slab T,TR 
Super Vivid 
TRad Crack T,TR 
Wallow In The Hollow  T 
We Don't Toprope T 
Zeitgeist T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Shape Shifter 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: TR: John MacLean and Marc Sprague. FFA: Shylo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,665
Submitted By: Echoinfi on Mar 25, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Hanging out on the work bench hold

Description 

This is probably the best 5.12 at Chatfield, one of the best 5.12's in CT, and maybe even in New England. The route has amazing holds that change in form as you progress up the route: small crimps, angular pinches, a pocket, huge pillow slopers, to huge roof jugs. Start on the Forearm Frenzy crack and cut immediately left to a good jug hold and then start up the crimps in the overhanging wall. Steady 5.10+ crimping leads to a technical foot intensive boulder problem with a big reach left to a angular pinch. This move is followed by another boulder problem with a big reach to a pin scar pocket and a big jug. Once you have gained the overhanging sloper pillows, and a good hold, climb out the amazing, severely overhanging roof.

A New England classic.


Video: youtu.be/3r9xh8AfkTI

Video:


Protection 

Glue-ins



Photos of Shape Shifter Slideshow Add Photo
Amazing
Amazing
Put your heel on the sloper, don't mind the spicy nature of things and go to the jug.
Put your heel on the sloper, don't mind the spicy ...
Yellow Line
BETA PHOTO: Yellow Line
Leif on Shape Shifter
Leif on Shape Shifter
Comments on Shape Shifter Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zane Dordai
Aug 22, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

CONDITION REPORT 

Aside from a few hollow flakes in the roof (some of which are very large...be careful!!) this climb goes up a section of bullet stone on perfect holds with very interesting crux moves and a heartbreaker pump crux. Previous beta didn't use some of the intermediate crimps between the "work bench" and the large hold to the left of the last clip (the bolt in the roof). Please refrain from using these holds until they are cleaned up (The flake with a large X is moving when weighted. Careful!). A classic route, one of the best of its grade anywhere.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 11, 2011

It's great to see this finally bolted and being lead, along with the other routes. Thanks Shylo. Chatfield is a great crag.