Shantytown Swing 5.6
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Chris Miller and Ernie Ramirez, 1991 |
| Submitted By: | Rick Shull on Jun 28, 2007 |
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Soloing Shantytown Swing. Continue above the anch...
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Description The "Swing" begins by scrambling up and on top of the perched block between Psychedelic Sluice and Out of Our Mines. From the top of the block, clip a bolt and continue up past 4 more bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor. Fun moves up plates and friction up top.
Location This is the bolted face just right of Psychedelic Sluice.
Protection 5 bolts and a 2 bolt chain anchor.
Ginny making the moves on Shanty Town Swing. The c...
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LR pulls up from the lead in ramp
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LR approaches the anchors
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Krissy on Shantytown Swing
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| Comments on Shantytown Swing |
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 28, 2007
| If I understand the description properly, I'd have to say it's much more fun to start this route direct, up the crack on the left side of the block. Fun climb, great lead for the beginners. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.6
| The route can be started either way (from the block or the ground), but the direct is better imo. Perhaps a little tougher (?), and a little more strenuous, but gear (2-2.5") could be placed if desired/needed on the direct start.
Orignally done with three bolts (the 2nd, 4th and 5th) and no anchor; the route was later retro-bolted to make it a fun lead for 5.6 climbers. |
By Jon Leicht
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.6
| The direct layback start was much more fun, and not more than a half grade harder. |
By tinyonion
Oct 2, 2011
rating: 5.6
| I agree that the direct start is very fun. I plugged a #3 C4 in for fun but you really don't need it and I doubt that it would stop you from decking. The moves to gain the ledge are not more than 5.6+ maybe 5.7 but I doubt it. Good fun though and a good route for people getting used to outside lead. Though the 5.3 around the corner next to wildrose is probably a better intro if it's a first lead. |
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