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 ADVANCED
Motherlode Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belleville TR 
Black Bart S 
Blasting Cap S 
Cap Gun T 
Dust in the Wind T 
Fire in the Hole S 
Fools Gold T 
Golden Gloves S 
Golden Nugget S 
Lodestone S 
Motherlode S 
Out of Our Mines S 
Psychedelic Sluice T 
Shantytown Swing S 
Wildrose S 

Shantytown Swing 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chris Miller and Ernie Ramirez, 1991
Page Views: 1,470
Submitted By: Rick Shull on Jun 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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LR approaches the anchors

Description 

The "Swing" begins by scrambling up and on top of the perched block between Psychedelic Sluice and Out of Our Mines. From the top of the block, clip a bolt and continue up past 4 more bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor. Fun moves up plates and friction up top.


Location 

This is the bolted face just right of Psychedelic Sluice.


Protection 

5 bolts and a 2 bolt chain anchor.



Photos of Shantytown Swing Slideshow Add Photo
Ginny making the moves on Shanty Town Swing. The crack of Psychedelic Sluice is just to the left.
Ginny making the moves on Shanty Town Swing. The c...
Soloing Shantytown Swing.  Continue above the anchors on easy slab, move left to find the 4th/easy 5th class downclimb next to Blasting Cap. <br /> <br />photo by John Hoffman
Soloing Shantytown Swing. Continue above the anch...
LR pulls up from the lead in ramp
LR pulls up from the lead in ramp
Krissy on Shantytown Swing
Krissy on Shantytown Swing
Comments on Shantytown Swing Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 28, 2007

If I understand the description properly, I'd have to say it's much more fun to start this route direct, up the crack on the left side of the block. Fun climb, great lead for the beginners.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

The route can be started either way (from the block or the ground), but the direct is better imo. Perhaps a little tougher (?), and a little more strenuous, but gear (2-2.5") could be placed if desired/needed on the direct start.

Orignally done with three bolts (the 2nd, 4th and 5th) and no anchor; the route was later retro-bolted to make it a fun lead for 5.6 climbers.

By Jon Leicht
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

The direct layback start was much more fun, and not more than a half grade harder.

By tinyonion
Oct 2, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I agree that the direct start is very fun. I plugged a #3 C4 in for fun but you really don't need it and I doubt that it would stop you from decking. The moves to gain the ledge are not more than 5.6+ maybe 5.7 but I doubt it. Good fun though and a good route for people getting used to outside lead. Though the 5.3 around the corner next to wildrose is probably a better intro if it's a first lead.