Shanty Cliff Rock Climbing
Jamie McNeill on Rocinha (5.10c). Photo by Jay Ha...
Secluded. Shaded bottom half for most routes until early afternoon. Don't be surprised to see other climbers and hikers on the weekends. Overall it's a quiet place to climb. Very 'back-to-nature'.
Park at the Cod Pond trailhead parking area along Route 8 (8.3 miles north of the Route 30 intersection, or 14.7 miles south of the Route 28 intersection in Wevertown). Head north 150 yards along Route 8 (over a small bridge). Where the guard rail ends there's a dirt road heading left and down towards the river with a camp site at the end. Cross the river (1-2 feet high during summer) and follow the obvious herd path, which meanders left, then right again, in order to get around a wet area.
Path reaches the slabs in 10 minutes (on left). Continuing right another 5 minutes to reach the Sports Arena (on right, some bolted routes). Continuing up
the dike along the cliff's base to the remainder of the wall:
- Shanty Girl chimney with 3 moderate routes
- Shantytown and Gunky Route area with many roofs and orange colored rock
- Two 100 foot walls nearly facing each other (on right is Little Gem Diner, left is Hard Times)
- Main Face (Left End) low roofs (also called The Raven's Nest)
- Long, low roof 6 feet high with a short slab section just above
Past this last wall the trail continues up and then right. You can walk off nearly all the climbs here. Which exit/ramp you choose will depend on where you are on the cliff. At the top of the dike walkoff climber's left. Middle and lower sections use the third class ramp right of Little Gem Diner area. Can also rappel most routes.
Shanty offers top roping, trad, and sport climbing from easy 5.2 up to 5.11 . Rock is good quality and routes are generally easy to follow. Routes are mostly trad, a few mixed (trad and bolts), and some sport. Bolting is done only where no protection is available in tradiitonal Adirondack ethic.
Although most of the routes are cleaned, spring runoff can bring dirt down into the climb, so it's wise to bring a small brush and maybe carry it with you (especially if leading). This is probably a good idea for any backcountry crag.
Weather station 8.4 miles from here
26 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Shanty Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Shanty Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Shanty Cliff:
Swampoodle 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Soweto 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Shantytown 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Rocinha 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Shanty Cliff
Little Gem Diner 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b NY
: ... : Shanty Cliff
Start at left leaning crack. Work up the crack about 20 feet to a good stance, then straight up to a bulge with 2 cracks running through it. Use the left crack to pull over the bulge (crux), then climb straight up to the anchors (above a large ledge a few feet from the top)....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
BETA PHOTO: Fording the E. Branch of the Sacandaga on the way ...
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 22, 2012
The base of the main climbing walls in the middle (two 100 foot walls that nearly face each other) is heavily eroded. I find heading to the left wall, then traversing up and right to access the right hand wall is the best approach. In the future some work will be done to shore up the base of those walls to halt the erosion taking place.
Oct 29, 2012
Has anyone climbed the fingers-to-hands jamcrack through the big overhang that is basically a direct start to Circuitous Shit?
Sep 8, 2015
Visited 9/6/15 and 9/7/15. Started up Hard Times and much to my disappointment the second to last (and possibly last as well) bolt hanger before the anchors was missing. The bolt stud was still in the rock, but no hanger.
By J. Nickel
Jul 30, 2016
I put a new hanger and nut on the last bolt of Hard Times today. The rest of them looked OK.