| || |
Secluded. Shaded bottom half for most routes until early afternoon. Don't be surprised to see other climbers and hikers on the weekends. Overall it's a quiet place to climb. Very 'back-to-nature'.
Park at the Cod Pond trailhead parking area along Route 8 (8.3 miles north of the Route 30 intersection, or 14.7 miles south of the Route 28 intersection in Wevertown). Head north 150 yards along Route 8 (over a small bridge). Where the guard rail ends there's a dirt road heading left and down towards the river with a camp site at the end. Cross the river (1-2 feet high during summer) and follow the obvious herd path, which meanders left, then right again, in order to get around a wet area.
Past this last wall the trail continues up and then right. You can walk off nearly all the climbs here. Which exit/ramp you choose will depend on where you are on the cliff. At the top of the dike walkoff climber's left. Middle and lower sections use the third class ramp right of Little Gem Diner area. Can also rappel most routes.
Shanty offers top roping, trad, and sport climbing from easy 5.2 up to 5.11 . Rock is good quality and routes are generally easy to follow. Routes are mostly trad, a few mixed (trad and bolts), and some sport. Bolting is done only where no protection is available in tradiitonal Adirondack ethic.
Browse More Classics in Shanty Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shanty Cliff:
Little Gem Diner 5.6 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Flying Friends 5.7 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Soweto 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Rocinha 5.10c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Shanty Cliff