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Shannon Falls

Routes Sorted
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Beaten Zone, The S 
Cardhu Crack T 
Chewbacca T 
Dirty Dicky T 
Ghille Suit S 
Hungry Wolf T 
Hunters Moon T 
Klahanie Crack T 
Local Boys Do Good T,S 
Man of Leisure T,S 
Never Say Never T 
Petra S 
Poultry in Motion T 
Relish Route, The S 
Shortcut S 
Skywalker T 
Split Decision T 
Urine too Deep T 

Shannon Falls 


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Location: 49.6732, -123.1544 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,342
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007
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Looking down Shannon Falls from near the end of th...

Description 

Shannon Falls Provincial Park is reported to be the most often visited Provincial Park in BC. The climbing here is very good and the approaches are not long. Despite those advantages it doesn't seem to see that much climbing traffic. Perhaps the tourist popularity of the area is seen as a detraction. Rest assured that once you cross the creek and start climbing, you won't see them, except from way above, and you won't hear them thanks to the falls. This area is well worth a visit.

The left side of this area is home to some low-angle single and multipitch climbs of high quality. The most well-known of which are Klahanie Crack (5.7, 1 pitch), Local Boys Do Good (5.11a, 3 pitches) and Magic Carpet Ride (5.11+, 3 pitches). Further right from the falls, it is also home to some outstanding vertical climbs such as Man of Leisure (5.10b) and two testpiece cracks: Hungry Wolf (5.11b) and Hunter Moon (5.11d). Note that Hungry Wolf and Hunter Moon are reversed in Kevin McLane's 2005 edition of his guidebook (on the topo the 321 and 322 are reversed).


Getting There 

Park at the Shannon Falls Provincial Park lot which is just south of the Chief and about 3 miles north of Murrin Park.

Longer but better approach:

Walk along the driveway between the traffic lights and the parking lot. A trail heads east and in about 10 minutes takes you to the Local Boys area from which you can head right for all the other climbs.

Shorter, bushwack approach:

The a wide tourist trail takes you to the falls viewpoint. Before reaching the bridge, cross the creek on a large long and some rocks in the creek. You might get your feet wet in the spring.

Once on the other side a steep trail takes you straight up to base of Local Boys.

From the Local Boys Area:

A trail heads right and takes you to the right side ("The Gobsmacking Wall"). From the Local Boys area it's five or ten minutes to the far right side. To get to base of Hunter Moon and its companions you have to double back along a high ledge, whereas following the trail along the base will take you to the base of Man of Leisure.


18 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shannon Falls:
Klahanie Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Cardhu Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 130'   
Skywalker   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 300'   
Urine too Deep   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Split Decision   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Chewbacca   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Local Boys Do Good   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350'   
Hungry Wolf   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Never Say Never   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
Browse More Classics in Shannon Falls

Featured Route For Shannon Falls
JessT linking P1 and 2, Chewbacca.

Chewbacca 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  North America : Canada : ... : Shannon Falls
Fantastic new addition. Steep, varied climbing and a nice departure from the usual Squamish corner. All bolted anchors.P1 - Easy face climbing leads to a short, steep tight hands/finger crack. 5.10-. Small ledge for the belay.P2 - Fun chimney/slot with good gear. Felt about 5.9 tops to me. Huge belay ledge.P3 - The money pitch. Climb the steep finger/hand crack until the little roof. While it looks like it should go up the corner, the climb tackles the short tight hand crack that angles r...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Shannon Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Shannon Falls from the tourist trail.  All of the climbing is to the right of the falls.  The  area immediately right of the falls contains some classic three pitch slab routes.  Further right there are testpiece vertical cracks to be found.
Shannon Falls from the tourist trail. All of the ...
Upper Shannon Falls.  This is where Shannon Falls begins to drop.  The Elevation here is about 400m.  The tourist trail at the bottom of the falls is no more than 100m above sea level.
Upper Shannon Falls. This is where Shannon Falls ...
Shannon Falls. The AMO Wall lies to the left of the falls and is accessed via a gravel path on the left, toward the gondola, before Shannon Falls comes into view.
Shannon Falls. The AMO Wall lies to the left of th...
Comments on Shannon Falls Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 13, 2011

The trail up to Local Boys and then to Gobsmacking Wall is now extremely well traveled due to Skywalker (which descends the climber's right side). We got on the trail by backtracking on the Shannon Falls road until past the creek, and then a well marked trail takes off to the left.