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 ADVANCED
Shanahan Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beau! T 
Better Offer T 
East Face - North Rib of the Eastern Crag T 
East Face of the Eastern Crag (South) T 
Great Expectations T 
Identity Theft T 
Leonine T 
Prune Face T 
South Face T 
Southeast Ridge T 
Southeast Ridge, North Crag T 
Vague Jug Line T 
When It's Right T 
Unsorted Routes:

Shanahan Crag  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Guy H. on Nov 30, 1999
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BETA PHOTO: A photograph of Shanahan crag as seen from The Kee...

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Shanahan Crags are located to the south of "The Slab". There are a couple "classic" easy Flatiron routes found on the main rock. There are also some more demanding trad routes on the south face, also. The descent involves doing a short downclimb to the gully north of the southern summit. A short rap from a tree will put you on the ground. A scramble down the south side will get you back to your packs.

L->R:

Leonine, 10+, 2p, 180', gear.
Great Expectations, 9-, 2p, 180', gear.
Prune Face, 7, 1p, 120', gear.
Better Offer, 9+, 1p, 120', gear.
Beau!, 7+, 1p, 120', gear.
Identity Theft 7+, 1p, 130', gear.

South Face, 4, 2p, gear.
Vague Jug Line, 7+, 1p, 120', gear.
When It's Right, 8 R, 1p, 90', gear.
Southeast Ridge, 0, 3p, gear.
Southeast Ridge, North Crag, 5, 4p, 400', gear.

Getting There 

This rock is best approached from the southern Shanahan Trail, which meets up with the Mesa trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shanahan Crag:
Southeast Ridge   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Trad, 3 pitches   
South Face   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Beau!   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Shanahan Crag

Featured Route For Shanahan Crag
Will Clopton leading out on "Identity Theft&q...

Identity Theft 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Flatirons : ... : Shanahan Crag
This is the line shown in Rossiter's guidebooks as the "South Face." Consensus seems to be that the "real" South Face is the excellent double-crack system about 50 feet to the right. But this is a decent route in its own right, with both 5.4 and 5.7 options. Start just right of an obvious left-facing corner with a roof, and climb easily up face holds and cracks for about 100 feet. At a good ledge, you can traverse right to reach an anchor. (If you do this, the route is very well protected and ab...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Shanahan Crag
Comments on Shanahan Crag Add Comment
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By Dougald MacDonald
Mar 8, 2003
With several new routes, the south face of Shanahan is now an excellent destination for moderate climbing. There are six routes from 5.4 to 5.9+ (not including the 11a Leonine), and several of these climbs merit three stars. The new routes all have adequate protection, but it can be tricky to arrange. RPs are a must and double ropes can be useful. Many leaders will be more comfortable a grade or two below their limitis.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 13, 2003
For those new to the crag, you will likely first encounter rock (lower part of the crag)well downhill from the established routes. Keep moving uphill and it will match the picture from Rossiter's guide. We met some folks trying to match some grungy crack with the photo perhaps 150 m downhill from the South Face route. The area may be lined up E-W wise as further W than the notch W of the Sphinx.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Mar 31, 2003
I was one of the goofballs that Leo mentions, and I admit that I was suckered into starting up the grungy crack that's lower downslope from the posted routes. (What can I say, I was overly anxious to get on real rock after having spent a bit too much time at BRC....) The grungy crack did have a couple of fun moves, but it's nowhere near as pretty as the other routes just a little further up.
By James Garnett
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 22, 2003
I've never rappelled off the summit of this rock, but always downclimbed through the notch. That way sucks, though, because you have to scramble back through loose talus. My preferred method of descending now is to do a double-rope rappel from the rap station at the top of Prune Face (slings around a block, backed up with a fixed nut). This is a lot nicer and quicker, and with the rock as close to the trails as it is, it's not too much of a PITA to carry the extra rope.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 28, 2004
Gotta disagree with the approach beta here, unless you enjoy Flatiron bushwacking. The best approach is via the Terrain Boulders. From the upper-most Terrain boulders (Love Boat), head south through the woods to the base of Shanahan crag.
By James Garnett
From: Bellingham, WA
Jan 26, 2005
What's wrong with the approach beta, AC? It's spot-on. This is a crag that is dear to our (shanahan-lovers') hearts, apparently, because the cairns that occasionally appear are quickly knocked down. Nevertheless, the beta is simple: from the gully between the south & north shanhan crag trails, walk west until you're at the crag: if it's not _totally_ obvious that you've arrived, then you haven't.