Shallow Fried Cracken
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Brian leading Shallow Fried Cracken at the start o...
This is the very obvious thin crack going up through the dead center of this section of the crag. The crux is half way up the route on some thin finger jams and face holds. Good route but somewhat serious lead as gear can get thin and its sometimes hard to see your placements and some of the rock might be suspect. Climb with soft sandstone technique and get extra placements in wherever possible. Fun!
Climb the obvious thin crack up the center of this face; the route has a basketball sized hueco just barely to the right of the crack about 10 feet off the ground.
Trad lead with an emphasis on small pieces (ballnuts, thin cams, brass wires, etc). There are no bolts but sometimes there are slings on the tree at cliff top for rappeling. Walk off is a pretty easy option too; just walk off as "Aliens Have Landed".
You can get a couple good stances down low and wor...
Route photo of Shallow Fried Cracken!
Moving into the thin crux section; fun!!
Jason cleaning Shallow Fried Cracken just past the...
Just past the crux section and to the top; fun rou...
From: las vegas, NV
Jan 21, 2009
Good as TR solo. Easy to reach top by walking down from base of Classic Corner. Top of route is to the left of rappel bush as you look out East.
By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Apr 8, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The pro is very acceptable on this excellent pitch, but you can't expect to just plug and go. Stopper placements are plentiful, small cams also, but it's thoughtful climbing. When the black rails run out, in the middle, there's some fragile rock to deal with as well. Still, a very enjoyable climb. It would be simple to toprope.