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Red Springs Rock Lower Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aliens Have Landed T,TR 
Carrie Fissure T 
Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo T 
Hans Soloing T 
Obie-One Keone TR 
Shallow Fried Cracken T 

Shallow Fried Cracken 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Larry Ferber and Lesley Tarleton
Page Views: 588
Submitted By: 46and2 on Apr 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Looking down after the fun first moves.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the very obvious thin crack going up through the dead center of this section of the crag. The crux is half way up the route on some thin finger jams and face holds. Good route but somewhat serious lead as gear can get thin and its sometimes hard to see your placements and some of the rock might be suspect. Climb with soft sandstone technique and get extra placements in wherever possible. Fun!

Location 

Climb the obvious thin crack up the center of this face; the route has a basketball sized hueco just barely to the right of the crack about 10 feet off the ground.

Protection 

Trad lead with an emphasis on small pieces (ballnuts, thin cams, brass wires, etc). There are no bolts but sometimes there are slings on the tree at cliff top for rappeling. Walk off is a pretty easy option too; just walk off as "Aliens Have Landed".


Photos of Shallow Fried Cracken Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: You can get a couple good stances down low and wor...
You can get a couple good stances down low and wor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route photo of Shallow Fried Cracken!
Route photo of Shallow Fried Cracken!
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving into the thin crux section; fun!!
Moving into the thin crux section; fun!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian leading Shallow Fried Cracken at the start o...
Brian leading Shallow Fried Cracken at the start o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux section and to the top; fun rou...
Just past the crux section and to the top; fun rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jared working the Crux
Jared working the Crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason cleaning Shallow Fried Cracken just past the...
Jason cleaning Shallow Fried Cracken just past the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alyse at the crux of the route.
Alyse at the crux of the route.

Comments on Shallow Fried Cracken Add Comment
Show which comments
By cassondra
Jan 21, 2009

Good as TR solo. Easy to reach top by walking down from base of Classic Corner. Top of route is to the left of rappel bush as you look out East.
By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Apr 8, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The pro is very acceptable on this excellent pitch, but you can't expect to just plug and go. Stopper placements are plentiful, small cams also, but it's thoughtful climbing. When the black rails run out, in the middle, there's some fragile rock to deal with as well. Still, a very enjoyable climb. It would be simple to toprope.
By Manderson198
Oct 4, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Climbed this with today with Alyse. The route was okay, but nothing more. Protection was plentiful, but somewhat tricky. None of the moves were that difficult, but the rock quality in some places was suspect at best. Rusty red/white sandstone edges don't inspire the most confidence. That being said, if you're comfortable at the grade, this is a decent lead to work on your Red Rock non-varnished sandstone head game. Look for subtle feet!

Also, there are chains at the top, so no need to belay/rappel from the tree.

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