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Shalaylay Direct 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Season: sun warms climb in the winter, hot in summer
Page Views: 1,974
Submitted By: Eric Foster on Mar 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Fantastic route! A edging masterpiece!


The climb to the left of fear of flying. This is a demanding route with tedious footwork and very thin face moves. The start of this climb is 11a and moves up on small arete. From there climb past 3 bolts i beleive and then work your way right to a crack where you can then put in a orange alien or a .4 BD camalot. Climb up past more bolts to small roof, last 3 bolts are cruxy.


Start at 2 eyebolts at the bottom of south crack but up from the gulley. Once at the top of climb, for decent you have a few options. Climb the 3rd class to the summit, rope up though. Either rappel off the back or down south crack. There is another place to rappel halfway down south crack, this helps so that you dont get your ropes stuck.


2 good belay bolts at the bottom of south crack, bolts, one small piece. Top has one eye bolt and 2 back up glueins.

Photos of Shalaylay Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolts not marked.
BETA PHOTO: Bolts not marked.

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By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 8, 2012

The last bit is cruxy, but unfortunately the rock up there is pretty mungy. It would be a lot more fun if the crux slab moves were on the high-quality grainy granite found elsewhere at PP instead of the baked crusty stuff.

Still a fun route though, with a very cool position.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 17, 2014

Climbed this today and took a few forceful falls onto the rusty 1/4" bolt right above the belay, so I guess it's good, but it really should be replaced in my opinion (especially when the rest of the climb has nice half inchers). The rest of the route was very fun, painful on the fingertips though. Reminded me a lot of EBGB in josh, but thankfully not as scary.
By Hugo Almanza
From: Phoenix,AZ
Jan 9, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A great route! It definitely deserves more traffic! Great quality granite through out the climb. It feels like a more difficult loafers choice. The beginning section is a little spicy ,as far as protection is concerned, but the rest of the route is protected very well.

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