Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pinnacle Peak
Select Route:
28th Day 
Angels On My Mind 
Baby Woolsey 
Birthday Party 
Brown Out 
Chug A Lug 
Chutes and Ladders 
Death Watch 
Deep Throat 
Deliverance 
Dried Oatmeal 
Ezy Rider 
Fear of Crying 
Fear of flying 
Garbert's Chimney 
Give Me an Idea 
Hades 
Just Standing Around 
Lesson in Discipline 
Never Never Land 
Parallax View 
Pecker Party 
Powder Puff 
Shalaylay Direct 
Sidewinder 
Silhouette 
South Crack 
Spiral Staircase 
Tongue of Time 
Unknown, left of Palo Verde 
Vanishing Point 
Vuluptuous Ham 

Shalaylay Direct 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: sun warms climb in the winter, hot in summer
Page Views: 1,451
Submitted By: Erock on Mar 24, 2007
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Bolts not marked.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

The climb to the left of fear of flying. This is a demanding route with tedious footwork and very thin face moves. The start of this climb is 11a and moves up on small arete. From there climb past 3 bolts i beleive and then work your way right to a crack where you can then put in a orange alien or a .4 BD camalot. Climb up past more bolts to small roof, last 3 bolts are cruxy.


Location 

Start at 2 eyebolts at the bottom of south crack but up from the gulley. Once at the top of climb, for decent you have a few options. Climb the 3rd class to the summit, rope up though. Either rappel off the back or down south crack. There is another place to rappel halfway down south crack, this helps so that you dont get your ropes stuck.


Protection 

2 good belay bolts at the bottom of south crack, bolts, one small piece. Top has one eye bolt and 2 back up glueins.



Comments on Shalaylay Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 8, 2012

The last bit is cruxy, but unfortunately the rock up there is pretty mungy. It would be a lot more fun if the crux slab moves were on the high-quality grainy granite found elsewhere at PP instead of the baked crusty stuff.

Still a fun route though, with a very cool position.

By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 17, 2014

Climbed this today and took a few forceful falls onto the rusty 1/4" bolt right above the belay, so I guess it's good, but it really should be replaced in my opinion (especially when the rest of the climb has nice half inchers). The rest of the route was very fun, painful on the fingertips though. Reminded me a lot of EBGB in josh, but thankfully not as scary.