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The climb to the left of fear of flying. This is a demanding route with tedious footwork and very thin face moves. The start of this climb is 11a and moves up on small arete. From there climb past 3 bolts i beleive and then work your way right to a crack where you can then put in a orange alien or a .4 BD camalot. Climb up past more bolts to small roof, last 3 bolts are cruxy.
Start at 2 eyebolts at the bottom of south crack but up from the gulley. Once at the top of climb, for decent you have a few options. Climb the 3rd class to the summit, rope up though. Either rappel off the back or down south crack. There is another place to rappel halfway down south crack, this helps so that you dont get your ropes stuck.
2 good belay bolts at the bottom of south crack, bolts, one small piece. Top has one eye bolt and 2 back up glueins.
|Comments on Shalaylay Direct
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 8, 2012
The last bit is cruxy, but unfortunately the rock up there is pretty mungy. It would be a lot more fun if the crux slab moves were on the high-quality grainy granite found elsewhere at PP instead of the baked crusty stuff.
Still a fun route though, with a very cool position.