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Potrillo Cliffs
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Shaky Flake 
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Tarzan 
Upper Kor's Crack 

Shaky Flake 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 210
Submitted By: George Perkins on Feb 20, 2008
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Description 

Shaky Flake goes up the low angled slab just to the left of Fickle Fingers. Start just a few feet to the left of Fickle Fingers, with a tough move off the ground and no protection for 2/3 of the climb, climbing up the slab with thin edges and delicate flakes. You might find tiny nut placements behind a flake, but don't count on it. At the top of the slab, you can get good pro, but the difficulty doesn't exceed 5.7 from here to the top.

If this line is set as a toprope, the easiest way up is to climb Fickle Fingers for the lower 1/2, and traverse left to the top of Shaky Flake- this is probably 5.8 or 5.9, certainly easier than either of the two climbs independently.


Location 

This climb is route 9 in the online miniguide
It is in the middle of the West-facing side of Potrillo, just a little up and left of a juniper right by the cliff.


Protection 

A couple of cams. Possible micronut placements on the slab start?
Some stuff for an anchor, or tie off trees.



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