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 ADVANCED
Potrillo Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ardeidae Arete T,TR 
Belly Flop T,TR 
Belly Up T,TR 
Call of the Crane T,TR 
Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 
Cave Route Center T,TR 
Chuckwalla T,TR 
Chuckwalla Right T,TR 
Cindy's Chimney T,TR 
Desperate (Left) T,TR 
Double Trouble TR 
Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Fool on the Hill S,TR 
Grandstanding T,TR 
Gymnast T,TR 
Heron's Fissure T,TR 
Jane T,TR 
Kor's Dog T,TR 
Left Cave Route T,TR 
Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 
Pieces of Eight T,TR 
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 
Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 
Right Cave Route T,TR 
Route 1 TR 
Route 1.5 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 4 T,TR 
Shaky Flake T,TR 
Sleeper T,TR 
Tarzan T,TR 
Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 

Shaky Flake 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 214
Submitted By: George Perkins on Feb 20, 2008

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Description 

Shaky Flake goes up the low angled slab just to the left of Fickle Fingers. Start just a few feet to the left of Fickle Fingers, with a tough move off the ground and no protection for 2/3 of the climb, climbing up the slab with thin edges and delicate flakes. You might find tiny nut placements behind a flake, but don't count on it. At the top of the slab, you can get good pro, but the difficulty doesn't exceed 5.7 from here to the top.

If this line is set as a toprope, the easiest way up is to climb Fickle Fingers for the lower 1/2, and traverse left to the top of Shaky Flake- this is probably 5.8 or 5.9, certainly easier than either of the two climbs independently.


Location 

This climb is route 9 in the online miniguide
It is in the middle of the West-facing side of Potrillo, just a little up and left of a juniper right by the cliff.


Protection 

A couple of cams. Possible micronut placements on the slab start?
Some stuff for an anchor, or tie off trees.



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