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The Love Nest
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Shakin' Like Milk 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Borne and others
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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A good look at the thin start. Photo by Tony Sarti...

Description 

This route is the right-most line on the Love Nest formation and starts in a shallow corner and then finishes on the face above.

A steep start on large but somewhat loose holds leads into a shallow, right-facing patina corner with the crux moves exiting onto the tan face above. The finish appears desperate but reach high enough and a hidden hold will magically appear.

The easiest of the Love Nest routes, this is a good warm-up for the adjacent lines if need be. Complex moves on good rock make this a fun route and merit it three out of five stars.

Protection 

6 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")


Photos of Shakin' Like Milk Slideshow Add Photo
The 1/2 century man grooving in the winter sun at The Love Nest. Photo by Jan McCollum.
The 1/2 century man grooving in the winter sun at ...
The Love Nest as seen from the desert floor.
BETA PHOTO: The Love Nest as seen from the desert floor.

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By Josh Beck
Nov 22, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Quite a fun route. The first bolt makes it look like there is a direct start - much more difficult this way, climb in from the right on big holds. Definitely a worthy route but not quite as good as something like Jane's Addiction or Bebop Tango.
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 16, 2009

Aka "The Bornical"