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Moose's Tooth
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Ham & Eggs 
Shaken not Stirred 
Unforgiven, The 

Shaken not Stirred 

WI5 M5 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 15 pitches, 3000', Grade V
Consensus: WI5 M5 [details]
FA: Jim Donini and Greg Crouch, 97
Season: Spring
Page Views: 3,815
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on May 27, 2008
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Shaken not stirred
Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

Sweetnees up the West Face a step up from Ham & Eggs. Drop down to the true base for a full value experince or head up from the high point on the glaicer and climb an arching 5.8 ish pitch to enter the weakness. Navigate steep snow and a few cruxy sections till "the Narrows" 500-600 feet of thin technical mixed climbing. Make your plays and head on to Englishman's col. Decend via fixed anchors with double ropes.


Location 

Fly in to the Route Canal Glaicer or go old school hard man style from the Mountain House.


Protection 

6 - 7 Ice screws / Light rack / five cams / nuts / hexes / pitons. Double Ropes



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By Matt Klick
Jan 29, 2013

This is a rad-looking route, but even more than Ham and Eggs, can be a total garbage chute. We aimed to do it after climbing HnE next door, but backed off after seeing a head injury evac'd out from party 1, and a separated shoulder from a second party. We headed back to the valley floor with that news...