Shaken Not Stirred
|Original: || Hueco: V12 Font: 8A+ [details]|
|FA: ||Elie Chevoiux (sp?)|
|Page Views: ||2,325|
|Submitted By: ||LeeAB on Mar 31, 2006|
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|Some areas require a guide.|
Great movement but awfully low to the ground, though it is not like you want to be cutting your feet right and left on this thing.
From the jug undercling at the back of the cave. Make huge moves out the roof on good holds untill you get to another good undercling. From here cross left over to a very positive flake then bring the right out to another edge a bit lower. move your feet around and reach out and up right to a pretty terrible sidepull with a tooth at the top, make sure to get a finger behind this tooth as it is the only good part of the hold. Walk your feet around to the right and fall into an undercling with your left. Get a good right dropknee and start bumping your right hand out edges eventually getting to the hueco that Big Iron starts in, you can use intermediates or just go all the way in one toss. Walk your right foot into the hueco and match, then drop your right foot down to a spike and you are ready to start Big Iron. Finish Big Iron to the step off onto the boulder to the right.
Most people blow it on Big Iron at least once as this problem is not about any one hard move but holding on for the duration.
Crawl all the way to the back of the Martini Roof and find a big chalked jug undercling, start here.
Pads and spotter for the finish.