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 ADVANCED
Whiskey Peak - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballantine Blast T 
Crown Royal T 
Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight T 
Lazy Buttress T 
Microbrew T 
Schaeffer's Delight T 
Shaken, Not Stirred T 

Shaken, Not Stirred 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FRA Paul Crosby, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

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Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This routes begins just around the corner to the left of the small face with Schaeffer's Delight and Lazy Buttress. The short first pitch goes up a square-cut somewhat loose corner to a good ledge, even with the start of the above-mentioned climbs. The second pitch goes straight up on face climbing to a belay niche in a flared slot about fifteen feet up and left from a prominent bush. The third pitch continues up the slot and then ascends the dark headwall above. The climb ends with a short, easy pitch to Lovers' Ledge.

Descend by climbing up the the main gully and downclimbing east.

Protection 

Standard rack, wires


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By Ben Townsend
Apr 27, 2015

Attractive line, disappointing rock quality. Approach as for Schaeffer's Delight, but where that approach heads up right into the brush, diagonal about 50' left.

P. 1: Climb awkwardly up the initial corner past some loose blocks to the next big ledge. 5.7, 30'

P. 2: Face climb up the nicely varnished prow, trending up and left to a triangular alcove. This is a really enjoyable pitch. 5.7, 130'

P.3: Up the low-angle crack, then pull over the obvious roof and on to the varnished headwall. Climb delicately up the fragile rock of the headwall until the angle lays back; take your pick of belay stances. 5.9, 80-120' depending where you choose to belay.

P. 4: Easy rock to Lover's Ledge. 5.5, 80-100'

Standard rack to #3 Camalot, emphasizing small to medium cams.
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