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 ADVANCED
Femme Fatale Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brigid O'Shaunessy 
Conch, The 
Dusty 
Egret Arete 
Enter Sandman 
High Hat 
Kathy Moffat 
La Directa 
Lord of the Flies 
Martini Madness 
Phyllis Diedrickson 
Prohibition Traverse 
Shaken, Like A Tornado 
Shaken, Not Stirred 
Swingin singles 
There's Friendlier Places to Drink 
Two pinches to glory 
Unsorted Routes:

Shaken, Like A Tornado 

Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: andy patterson on Nov 5, 2010

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Swingin' Singles starts on the left side of the ca...

Description 

Like everything else around here, this problem has gone through several "editions" due to hold-breakage. What hasn't changed is the long, body-tension intensive moves, and the decidedly grovelly top-out. Used to be V6, but a critical crimp broke, and the moves feel a bit more desperate.

Location 

Femme Fatale Zone. Sit Start the cave, go straight up and over the bulge.

Protection 

Pad.


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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 23, 2011

This route went from V6 to V6+ to V6++. Now I think it's V7 (or harder).

More breakage. What are you gonna do?

A super-fun grovel.

ANDY
By Bob Banks
Mar 11, 2011

Yeah, this one's bitchin, but hmmm, I disagree about a rating change. The bottom actually feels easier than it used to and the top high-step-to-pocket-then-grovel was always the 'business' anyway. I still say V6. It ain't as hard as Mister Witty or King Dinosaur.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 27, 2011

Just to perpetuate climbing esoterica: the "crimp" on the top sloping dish broke. As Bob says, the upper moves were always the business, but when I topped this thing out today I wanted to vomit.