This is a hidden gem! There are bushes blocking the view of the top half of the climb from the ground. If the bushes were not there I'm sure this climb would have people on it more often. Can be done in one pitch but two is recommended due to rope drag.
Pitch One: Climb up crack into and through the bushes. Set up a natural anchor below a large roof.
Pitch Two: Climb through the roof with excellent hands and cups (.10b) turning the lip is the crux. Continue up slabby hand crack (#2.5 friend) to the top and a natural anchor.
Walk off to the right.
This climb is to the right of Chicken Pie, and just to the left of a dirty Chimney for Two. Look for an east facing crack that climbs up into some bushes.
Single set to 3". Bring one extra #2-#3.5 friends. Slings.
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Mar 10, 2012
The moves at the lip of the roof are pretty cool. Like with most roof climbs, make sure the rope doesn't drag the cams up into the crack. Pitch 1 starts off as a pleasant handcrack and then quickly turns to vertical bushwhacking. This is sort of one of those novelty climbs where you do 200 feet of mediocre climbing just for that 15 feet of splitter roof crack. It's worth it though.