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BETA PHOTO: Lava & Shake-n-Bake as seen from top of Machete Ri...
Shake-N-Bake is a Pinnacles classic. Three older bolts bring you to the first anchor which is two old bolts and one new one. It is possible to get a decent nut in before traversing out to the first bolt. The theme here is traversing on okay but not great rock. Challenging for the follower as well as the leader. Pitches two and three offer wonderful "silo" style stemming up a water streak. Rock quality on pitches two and three is good by Pinnacles standards and most of the bolts are newer. Though steep for the grade, decent stemming technique will keep the pump at bay. Two 60 meter ropes will get you down in two raps. Shake-N-Bake earns its "R" rating (on every pitch) but confident 5.10 leaders will find it very enjoyable and never desperate. Check for seasonal closures due to nesting. Climbed 11/27/11
Draws and a few slings. A few nuts (see guidebook recommendations).
photo credit: Vickie Gagagliano
BETA PHOTO: Balconies as seen from the top of Machete Ridge.
Dane Howell and Dave Delkeskamp on Shake-N-Bake. ...
By Simon W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 7, 2014
Excellent climb! A definite step up from Lava Falls, but more in adventure than difficulty. (The crux sections are harder, but not by leaps and bounds.) The posters statement about this climb never being desperate for 5.10 leaders is accurate. Keep an eye out to the left higher up on the second pitch because that's where most of the bolts are. I climbed past a couple and had to reverse a move or two just to clip near my knee.
The bolts on the first pitch are seriously manky. This was the psychological crux for me. Old rivets with rusty hangars. Definitely wouldn't want to load them at this point, let alone take a lead fall. The topo in Young's book depicts these bolts in a straight line but the second bolt is a near horizontal traverse right and the 3rd is more up and to the right. Don't get too low right there.
RE gear: After fiddling with a few nuts at the start I was able to get a decent yellow WC zero cam in to protect the moves to the first bolt. There is a bomber pod for a red C4 cam near the end of the third pitch when the bolts stop.