Shake And Not Stir 5.12d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Jim Patton |
| Submitted By: | Fred Gomez on Apr 2, 2012 |
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Description This route justifies the long hike to the third buttress. It climbs a sweeping parabolic wall with no discontinuities. The movement is athletic and thuggish.
Begin by climbing through two bolts of slopey jugs, being sure to use your heels effectively to make the steep angle more manageable. The third bolt is a bit tricky to clip, so it would be to your advantage to pre-hang the draw with a really long stick. The crux is around the third bolt and can be done a couple different ways. Post crux the angle gets more vertical and the climbing eases. One last surprising sequence is encountered a bolt below the chains. Use some strange two finger pockets and a couple small edges before manteling out the final ledge.
The rock on this one is a bit suspect in spots, but the movement makes up for what it lacks in rock quality.
Location Far right side of the third Buttress. Last route in the cave.
Protection 8 bolts + anchor
| Comments on Shake And Not Stir |
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By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 1, 2012
| I think the name of this one is "Shake and not Stir" a play on words that refers to shaking out on a hold without knocking yourself off, but sounds like "shaken not stirred." Jim and I climbed together some around the time he fired this one and this is what I recall him saying.
However, this was some time ago and memories fade.... |
By Fred Gomez
From: Lewisburg, WV
Nov 2, 2012
| Sounds like you know what you are talking about. Good enough for me. Name changed. |
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