Shake and Break
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BETA PHOTO: red:Access Gully 5.1
Blue: Shake and brake 5.9 TR
This route is X rated whether you do it on toprope or lead. Climb up the first 15' of the access gully, then break right to end up underneath the left side of the roof. Pull out from underneath the overhang onto the extremely aesthetic flake and continue to the top. The solidness of the flake is somewhat less than confidence inspiring, but it hasn't failed us yet.
Make sure your belayer (and anyone else) is off the side, helmets might be good.