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Medlicott Dome East End
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Shagadelic 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,417
Submitted By: Karl K on Aug 5, 2008
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Great knob climbing on the second pitch. September...

Description 

P1 - climb corner straight up (hand traverse from the right seems silly?), then up gully trending left. Before it gets too vegetated, clip the piton and bolts as you climb the face to the left of the gully to the top of the pillar. Bolted anchors are near the edge of the cliff (not back at the main wall). Will want small/medium cams to supplement bolts on the face. ~140' 5.7
P2 - Walk to the main wall & climb a small flake for ~15'. Climb the wonderful knobs up, left, and then back right. Just follow the bolts (10 bolts?) to the anchor. ~150' 5.7
P3 - Another bolted pitch, basically straight up. When you see the two bolts about 6 feet apart you know the 5.8 crux is upon you. 10 bolts? & Anchor. 140' 5.8
Either rappel the route from here (3 double rope rappels) or continue to the top:
P4 - Cross to the right side of the dike & find a tiny horizonal pod about 10' up and 5' right of the anchors. You can climb straight up from here to the roof (5.7) or wander a few feet right to go up 5.5 terrain. Turn the easy roof (5.2) with great pro & follow ledges & flakes up and right to the top of the dome.


Location 

Probably easiest to identify by finding the pine tree 70' feet up the cliff (and 20-30' left of the climbing line). Blocky Class 2 leads to the starting ledge.
Descent- rappel from P3 or walk right to end of dome after topping out.


Protection 

Normal rack & at least 10 quickdraws.



Photos of Shagadelic Slideshow Add Photo
Rob Andrews following the main pitch of Shagadelic. Photo by Martin Bennett
Rob Andrews following the main pitch of Shagadelic...
Look for the red arrows. Climbers on Shagadelic after our early morning ascent.
BETA PHOTO: Look for the red arrows. Climbers on Shagadelic af...
Rob Andrews on pitch 1 of Shagadelic, September 2006
Rob Andrews on pitch 1 of Shagadelic, September 20...
Comments on Shagadelic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dra-go-nee
Aug 18, 2008

Both bolted pitches take 10 draws, no trad.

By Brendan Moriarty
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Really fun face climbing on pitches 2 and 3. Will test your nerves if you're not a confident face climber and/or experienced leading at that level as it's definitely exposed. That said, it's pretty well protected in these two key pitches. Pitch 4 is short and a little disappointing. Depending on how you look at it topping out via pitch 4 sets up an invigorating hike down with great views of Half Dame, Cathedral Peak and Tenaya Lake or a belabored, effortful trek which could have been avoided by rapping from the top of pitch 3.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

P1 & P4 aren't anything to write home about but the two main slab pitches (P2 & P3) are excellent. Both P2 and P4 get 5.7 in Supertopo but P2 seems a lot harder: UK grade HVS 4b 5a 5b 4a. From the top it's a long walk down and round back to the start.

By Kaleem Khwaja
From: Emeryville, California
Jan 3, 2013

Re: no trad on P2/3: I actually slotted a #1 C4 on P3 to avoid runout, not that you really need it, but given the consistently tight bolt spacing except at that one spot, I assumed the FA intended natural pro there. After leading it 2 days in a row, I got the rack down to 5 pieces, which felt amazing (BETA ALERT: #8 stopper, #0.5 and 1 C4s, blue and green aliens). Not exactly sewn up, but sufficient.

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 4, 2013

The direct start (5.9) looks easier and better than it climbs.