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Shaft

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Shaft  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 25, 2012
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This pic was taken on Aug. 26, 2013, from near the...

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Description 

This is a separate area from The Main Pinecliffe Crag. It was developed by Kirk Miller and friends. It is ~1/4 mile East of Pinecliffe on top of a hill.

Thanks for the clarification, Kirk. If you want me to turn this area over to you, let me know.

Getting There 

This is a 1/4 mile East of Pinecliffe (top of the hill). There is a parking area with a larger rock outcropping (North side of road). Park here, there area only about 6-8 parking spots. There is a deep slot splitting 2 rock outcropings, this slot heads down to the river and ultimately the main climbing area at Pinecliffe along the train tracks. This is right after heading down toward the river, on the right side (West-facing). There are multiple bolted routes, Can You Dig It?, 10+, is the first bolted route, and it is right of John Shaft, 12a.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Shaft
John Shaft shown by green arrow and line.

John Shaft 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Coal Creek Canyon : ... : Shaft
The moves at the first 4 bolts are thin and the feet are hard to come by, no doubt the crux comes right off the deck. The route becomes easier, and it backs off for 20 feet. The final 3 bolts have thin, hard crimping again, there is an awesome pinching on long horizontal rail at the top out.There is a total of nine bolts, with 2 chain anchors. The anchors are not easily reached from the top of the crag, meaning a TR is challenging without first leading....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Aug 26, 2012
Who's the black private dick
That's a sex machine to all the chicks?
SHAFT!
Ya damn right!

Who is the man that would risk his neck
For his brother man?
SHAFT!
Can you dig it?

Who's the cat that won't cop out
When there's danger all about?
SHAFT!
Right On!

They say this cat Shaft is a bad mother.
SHUT YOUR MOUTH!
I'm talkin' 'bout Shaft.
THEN WE CAN DIG IT!

He's a complicated man,
But no one understands him but his woman.
JOHN SHAFT!
By George Bracksieck
Jul 13, 2013
Today, Dave, Holly and I followed what seemed like the most obvious ledge system around the left (west) side and found five bolted routes, each of which seems to be about 60 feet long. I led all but the hardest one, which I TRed. From left to right: 10a, 11, 9, 11a, and 8+. The hardest (5.11) shares its first three bolts with the 5.9, then angles left to tackle the biggest part of the biggest overhang.
By George Bracksieck
Aug 26, 2013
Today, my wife and I went farther down the slope below the bottom of the northwest face. Amid the mossy, heavily lichened slab, we barely discerned a few bolts with black hangers. Thinking that this could be one of the two 5.7s that Kirk Miller said he put up on this side, I thought we should try it.

The only secure anchorage in the muddy gully was at a Douglas fir, just uphill from a precariously balanced block that was bigger than a refrigerator. I led about 20 feet across the muddy gully and started up the rock to the first bolt. The moss and lichen were damp from recent monsoon rains, and the tiny bits of uncovered granite were still covered by grey, crustose lichen, which felt clammy. I continued carefully up the slippery face, thinking that this route was still a work in progress, awaiting a date with the wire brush that underneath the beard may lurk a preppy 5.7. With some loose rock thrown into the salad bowl, this pitch would be good for alpine training except that the seven bolts provided good pro.

Between the sixth and seventh bolts, an awkward mantel over a bulge felt like 5.9. I soon reached the grassy ledge where the other five routes begin and belayed from a 17-foot limber pine, about 75' above the start of the rock. We saw no other bolts or anchors on the lowest wall.
By Melvin Glerup
Nov 26, 2013
This email comment confirms that the so-called Pinecliffe climbing area is on Private Property. The Mountain Project should not publish that this is a climbing area.

There is no chance that this property will ever be available for public climbing, and all climbing should cease. No access is granted from the Lazy Z area to the north.

It is also time to remove the cable (tyrolean) as it is on Private Property on both sides of the creek.

Apparently No Trespassing signs and No Climbing Please signs have been ignored by many climbers, so this is another request to cease climbing at "Pinecliffe".

Melvin Glerup: 303-517-1253.