Shady Rock is a neat little ship of a rock, hidden deep under the forest canopy, but planted on the edge of Stevens Creek Canyon, with big views to the south and west.
In Bruce Morris's guidebook, "Climber's Guide to Skyline Boulevard", Shady Rock is divided into a west side and east side. The west side is preferable, with clean, pocketed, near-vertical sandstone and four bolted routes in the 5.8-5.10 range. The rock on the east side appears much dirtier. It is crumbly and predominantly overhanging. The routes here are 5.10-5.11.
A boulder traverse (left to right) of the entire rock is rated 5.11. Again, the portion on the west side is cleaner, easier, and in my opinion, more fun!
Easiest access is via the main Castle Rock State Park parking lot. Proceed down the Saratoga Gap trail for approximately 0.25 miles. On the right, you'll see a signed trail directing you to "Castle Rock 0.3 miles". In fact, it is MUCH further to Castle Rock itself, but you don't care.
Continue uphill on this trail for approximately 0.25 miles. On the right, note a climber's trail with a log across it, and a sign discouraging you from using it (it says "trail" with an arrow pointing you away from it). Continue for 0.1 miles. You'll come to a small "meadow" with three possible trails. Continue roughly straight and uphill. On your left, you'll see a large rock, called "Chew Tooth". Keep going uphill for another 0.2 miles. You'll see a nice overlook ahead, and a seeming dead end. Shady Rock is hidden on the right.
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shady Rock:
Slot Nose 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
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There are some great overhang routes on the east f...