There are some great overhang routes on the east f...
Shady Rock is a neat little ship of a rock, hidden deep under the forest canopy, but planted on the edge of Stevens Creek Canyon, with big views to the south and west.
In Bruce Morris's guidebook, "Climber's Guide to Skyline Boulevard", Shady Rock is divided into a west side and east side. The west side is preferable, with clean, pocketed, near-vertical sandstone and four bolted routes in the 5.8-5.10 range. The rock on the east side appears much dirtier. It is crumbly and predominantly overhanging. The routes here are 5.10-5.11.
A boulder traverse (left to right) of the entire rock is rated 5.11. Again, the portion on the west side is cleaner, easier, and in my opinion, more fun!
Easiest access is via the main Castle Rock State Park parking lot. Proceed down the Saratoga Gap trail for approximately 0.25 miles. On the right, you'll see a signed trail directing you to "Castle Rock 0.3 miles". In fact, it is MUCH further to Castle Rock itself, but you don't care.
Continue uphill on this trail for approximately 0.25 miles. On the right, note a climber's trail with a log across it, and a sign discouraging you from using it (it says "trail" with an arrow pointing you away from it). Continue for 0.1 miles. You'll come to a small "meadow" with three possible trails. Continue slightly left and uphill. On your left, you'll see a large rock, called "Chew Tooth". Keep going uphill for another 0.2 miles. You'll see a nice overlook ahead, and a seeming dead end. Shady Rock is hidden on the right. You will also be able to see Platypus Rock on your right as you head to shady rock.
Weather station 4.7 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Shady Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Shady Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Shady Rock:
Dog Breath 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For Shady Rock
BETA PHOTO: West Face of Shady Rock, CRSP. Photos by Morgan B...
By Bobby F
Oct 5, 2015
Most of the climbs say TR, but I didn't see a way to get to the top without first leading or highballing. Is there a way up I didn't notice?
By Jason Ogasian
From: South Lake Tahoe
May 3, 2016
Bobby, you have to lead the 5.8 to get to the top to set a TR anchor for any of the other routes.
By Lukas Wiborg
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2016
This area is one of my favorite due to the generally low amount of people on the rock. Occasionally there are groups being guided there but generally it is fairly empty.