Shady Rock  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  1,576. Good page?    Administrators:  Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Morgan Brown on Jul 28, 2002 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 73° | 50° 77° | 52° 81° | 50° 84° | 52° 84° | 54°

BETA PHOTO: West Face of Shady Rock, CRSP. Photos by Morgan B...

Description 

Shady Rock is a neat little ship of a rock, hidden deep under the forest canopy, but planted on the edge of Stevens Creek Canyon, with big views to the south and west.

In Bruce Morris's guidebook, "Climber's Guide to Skyline Boulevard", Shady Rock is divided into a west side and east side. The west side is preferable, with clean, pocketed, near-vertical sandstone and four bolted routes in the 5.8-5.10 range. The rock on the east side appears much dirtier. It is crumbly and predominantly overhanging. The routes here are 5.10-5.11.

A boulder traverse (left to right) of the entire rock is rated 5.11. Again, the portion on the west side is cleaner, easier, and in my opinion, more fun!

Getting There 

Easiest access is via the main Castle Rock State Park parking lot. Proceed down the Saratoga Gap trail for approximately 0.25 miles. On the right, you'll see a signed trail directing you to "Castle Rock 0.3 miles". In fact, it is MUCH further to Castle Rock itself, but you don't care.

Continue uphill on this trail for approximately 0.25 miles. On the right, note a climber's trail with a log across it, and a sign discouraging you from using it (it says "trail" with an arrow pointing you away from it). Continue for 0.1 miles. You'll come to a small "meadow" with three possible trails. Continue roughly straight and uphill. On your left, you'll see a large rock, called "Chew Tooth". Keep going uphill for another 0.2 miles. You'll see a nice overlook ahead, and a seeming dead end. Shady Rock is hidden on the right.

The Classics

Featured Route For Shady Rock

Slot Nose 5.8  CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Shady Rock

This is the rightmost route on the west side of Shady Rock. Bruce Morris's guidebook has a good topo. Crux is just below the first bolt; a fairly tricky mantle. Climb left from the first bolt, up 5.4 rock, then ascend the eponymous "slot" just below the anchor. An arm-bar may be useful here.Variation: From the first bolt, climb left and ascend the obvious arete to the anchor. Probably goes about 5.9. It's tricky to clip the bolt when leading this variation....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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There are some great overhang routes on the east f...