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BETA PHOTO: Jeff nearing the crux on Shady Lady (5.7).
This climb is the first you encounter in a neat little section of Sandstonia that is separated from the rest of the cliff by large blocks at either end. This little alcove is often quieter then the western side of the cliff and affords nice views of the river. The cave-like hole created by a large block 50 feet right of this climb creates a cool place to hide or eat lunch in the summer.
Start on the broken face just left the dihedral in some cracks (takes gear, but only a new 5.7 leader might feel uncomfortable without it). Climb the broken face, passing a roof on the left and continue up and right on the nice face to a small ledge and the anchors. You can TR the adjacent route (Lieback and Enjoy It, 5.10d) from this anchor with a directional or 2.
A fun easy route on cool rock.
At a dihedral, just past where the cliff juts out creating a narrow section of the trail (just past the prminent flake and corner of Butterfly Flake and Plumber's Corner).
6 bolts + 2-bolt anchor
Nearing the anchors on Shady Lady.
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Aug 17, 2015
Well-bolted, sustained grade, of decent length. This is a climb every 5.7 leader should do.
By Matt Powers
From: Madison, VA
Aug 26, 2015
I thought this was a way better route than Bobby D's Bunny. Sustained and fun.
By Dalton Lightkeeper
4 days ago
Fun crux makes for a cruise up the rest, don't forget to clip once you make the move though. It'd be easy to blow right past it.