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Shady Character 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Eakle and Barry Young, 7/95
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on May 13, 2007

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The roof variation


Climb up the chimney for about 30 feet until a roof blocks your way. Face traverse left and gain a wonderful zig-zagging hand and finger crack. Continue up this crack to the top.

Highly recommended variation: Start left of the huge roof on the left. Traverse to the right under the roof, utilizing a tips to off finger crack (awesome). Pass the roof and set up a semi-hanging belay. Continue straight up the great zig-zagging crack to the top.

Descent: Walk right and rap from the bolts for Dovercourt.


About 30 feet downhill, left of Dovercourt.


Nuts and cams: small to wide hands. Extra tight hand pieces make for a nice belay on the variation.

Photos of Shady Character Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the first belay. The finger traverse left that ...
At the first belay. The finger traverse left that ...

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By Jeremy Werlin
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A bit contrived, but so much fun it is highly recommended. The lower section is interesting, too. Standard rack up to 1 #3 Camalot.

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