Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterthought 
Anduril 
Art Imitates Life 
Art of the Pissant 
Big Kahuna 
Black Rider 
Caradhras 
Cirith Ungol 
Dimrill Stair 
Dwarrowdelf 
Easy Rider 
Fangorn Crack 
Fool's Gold 
Gandalf 
Glamdring 
Isengard 
Karmic Relief 
Khazaddum 
Little Bruiser 
Lord of the Rings 
Marranon 
Merryanne 
Middle Finger 
Nameless Left of Dimrill Stair 
Nameless Right of Shadowfax 
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold 
Orange Sunshine 
Orc 
Orthanc 
Out on a Whim 
Radagast 
Risky Business 
Rock Wrestling 
Rocking the Dalai Lama 
Room With A View 
Sam I Am 
Shadowfax 
Shelob's Lair 
Slice & Dice 
Smeagol's Surprise 
Strider 
Unsorted Routes:

Shadowfax 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,659
Submitted By: david baker on Jan 31, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Shadowfax (5.8). Climber TRing Black Rider to the ...
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Shadow Fax is the first climb you come to as you reach Middle Earth heading up from the south start of the climbers loop trail. Shadow Fax is a hand crack that widens to slightly off width as you get near the top. The crux comes near the bottom of the climb wear the crack moves slightly right with insecure feet (look to the small cracks to your right for help). The climbing is excellent and is good practise to improve your crack skills. The climb can be top roped by walking around the back of the rock and scrambleing up to the anchor. The crack is easily protectable and should be led.


Protection 

.5 to # 3 (a #4 can be used just don't admitt it to anybody). Bolt anchor and rap rings at top of climb.



Photos of Shadowfax Slideshow Add Photo
Shadow fax is the crack
Shadow fax is the crack
Clipping the big stuff on Shadowfax.
Clipping the big stuff on Shadowfax.
Sebastion heading up Shadowfax, the tough 5.8 hand, fist, and offwidth crack.  Little did he know the epic battle he would be engaged in moments later.
Sebastion heading up Shadowfax, the tough 5.8 hand...
Sebastion jamming the crack Shadowfax.
Sebastion jamming the crack Shadowfax.
Sebastion uses his big gear on Shadowfax.
Sebastion uses his big gear on Shadowfax.
Shadowfax from the bottom
BETA PHOTO: Shadowfax from the bottom
Comments on Shadowfax Add Comment
Show which comments
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Feb 23, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

A good clean crack. The crux is awkward rather than hard. Too bad it's not longer.

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Dec 10, 2010

There just is very little reason to walk past this climb. Its a great warm up for harder cracks in the area.

By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 23, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

As I understand it, the route has two starts. The direct start has been rated 5.9 while the lieback start to the right considered 5.8. The lieback start is significantly easier but the protection could be tricky if you dont place a piece, downclimb a step or two and then start. I recommend the direct start :)